Resources

Welcome to the resources page, where you’ll find links to all kinds of things from ingredient write ups to chemistry concepts to tips & tricks!

ALOE VERA
Using 100x or 200x in our products

ANHYDROUS PRODUCTS
Adding preservatives to anhydrous products.  (not including sugar/salt scrubs)
How do some people manage to get water soluble things to emulsify in anhydrous products?
Why do we heat and hold anhydrous products? (Scroll down a bit)

ANTI-OXIDANTS
A more in depth look at anti-oxidants
Why grapefruit seed extract (GSE) isn’t a preservative (but is an anti-oxidant)
How do anti-oxidants affect the shelf life of your product?
Combining anti-oxidants
Rancidity: A primer

CALCULATIONS
Calculating percentages in lotions.

Converting recipes from percentages to weights
Making larger batches – doubling and tripling and more!

Why we weigh our ingredients rather than using liquid measurements. 
What happens if our recipe totals more than 100%?

How do I modify a formula when I add or remove an ingredient?

CHEMISTRY – please check out the chemistry section as well
Anionic, cationic, and non-ionic (updated 2017)
A little more on electrical charges (2011)

EMULSIFIERS
Emulsifiers – check what you’ve got! 
Emulsifying systems – Polawax, e-wax, and Incroquat BTMS-50
Emulsifying systems – Olivem 800
When lotions go wrong – Olivem 800 fail!
Using Polawax and that 25% usage concept. 
Beeswax is NOT an emulsifier
How to replace BTMS-50 with BTMS-25?
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Polawax
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? E-wax
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Ritamulse SCG
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Incroquat BTMS-50
How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Lotionpro 165

GENERAL QUESTIONS
What does it mean to have an “active ingredient” or percentage of active ingredient?
Are astringent ingredients still moisturizing?
Are you getting what you think when you buy ingredients?
Do we need to use a preservative in soap?
How can you tell if a recipe is good?
How do I use powdered extracts?
How do you know into which phase we should add an ingredient?
How do you know how much of each ingredient to add to a product?
What’s an INCI name?
How to read INCI names (part 1)
How to read INCI names (part 2)
Making up batches of products and scenting them later
What does solubility mean?
What does anionic, cationic, and non-ionic mean?
What’s the difference between solubilizers and emulsifiers?
What are penetration enhancers?
Where do I get my information (how to research)?
When can you tinker with a finished product?
Why are you trying to create recipes from scratch?

Also check out the chemistry section for more information!

HUMECTANTS
Does glycerin draw water from your skin if the humidity is low?

Please check out the humectants section of the blog as it’s full of information on humectants!

INFUSIONS & TEAS
Why can’t we use tea in our products?
Infusions, teas, and using vinegar to preserve products?

LOTIONS, CREAMS & MOISTURIZERS
Can I re-heat a failed lotion?
Compensating for evaporation of the water phase during heat and hold
How much emulsifier should I use? (Specifically about Polawax)
Should I add the water phase to the oil phase or the oil phase to the water phase?
Some thoughts about greasiness in lotions
Troubleshooting an epic lotion fail
When lotions go wrong!
What is the “soaping effect”? (updated)
What is the cheapest lotion we could make?
What if our phases go over 70˚C?
Why we heat and hold our ingredients!
Why we heat and hold our ingredients separately!

LOTION FAILS

Why did this lotion fail? Part one

Why did this lotion fail? Part two

A slightly more in depth look at emulsification

It’s time to make lotion!

A few questions about lotion fails

Question: Why did this lotion fail?

When lotions go wrong!

Why did my lotion fail? Loads of links here!
Why did my lotion fail? Emulsifiers
Why did my lotion fail? Emulsifiers continued…
Why did my lotion fail? Heating and holding
Why did my lotion fail? Optiphen
Why did my lotion fail? Water in oil emulsions
How to make a successful lotion

NEWBIE LINKS
Making your first lotion – PDF and step by step tutorial
Making your first body butter – PDF and step by step tutorial

OILS & BUTTERS
Can we substitute one oil for another? (updated)
Can we use grocery store oils in our products?
Does heating & holding damage our oils or butters?
Heating, holding, freezing & thawing oils
How to temper your butter to avoid graininess! 
Why do we heat and hold anhydrous products? (Scroll down a bit).
How can grapeseed oil have a shelf life of a year?
Why are whipped butters whippable?

Check out the section of the blog on emollients for all the posts on carrier oils, exotic oils, butters, and esters!

pHAdjusting the pH in our productsCalibrating my pH meterpH of bath products
pH of conditioners

pH and our skin’s mantle
How to test the pH of our products and more (updated for 2017)

Testing pH meters – let’s compare a few (2017)
Do you need to test the pH of our products? If so, do you need a meter? (2017)

PRESERVATIVES
Are the preservatives found in our ingredients enough to preserve the entire product?
Grapefruit seed extract (GSE) is not a preservative
Water activity and sugar scrubs!

Please visit the preservatives section of the blog for more information on this topic!

THE PROCESS OF MAKING PRODUCTS
How do you know what to do (part 1)?
How do you know what to do (part 2)?
How to research ingredients?
Keeping your notes in order! 
Learning to formulate lotion series – introduction! 

SHELF LIVES OF PRODUCTS

Determining shelf lives of products (part 1)Determining shelf lives of products (part 2)

Determining the shelf life of your lotion! 
How do anti-oxidants affect the shelf life of your product?

SHOPPING FOR SUPPLIES
Choosing carrier oils
Suggested supplies for those new to lotion making
Which surfactants should you buy?

Where to get supplies in America?
Where to get supplies in Asia?
Where to get supplies in Australia and New Zealand?
Where to get supplies in Canada?
Where to get supplies in Europe?

SUBSTITUTIONS
General substitutions, including information on BTMS-25, cetrimonium chloride, and fatty alcohols.

SURFACTANTS
Surfactants and fragrances – clarity and colour!