Emollients – oils, butters, and esters

Chemistry of oils
Triglycerides (updated)
Fatty acids (updated)
Hydrogenation and fatty acids shapes (updated)
Cis and trans configurations (updated)
Mechanisms of rancidity
An in-depth look at anti-oxidants
Determining the shelf life of your lotions
Myristic acid (NEW!) Updated
Stearic acid (updated)
Stearic acid additional (updated) – 2016
Linoleic acid (updated)
Oleic acid (updated)
Gamma-linolenic acid (GLA) (updated)
Conjugated linoleic and linolenic acids (CLA) (updated)
Fatty acids: What’s up with them (part one)
Fatty acids: What’s up with them (part two)
Fatty acids: What’s up with them (part three)

Omega 3, 6, and 9 (updated)

Questions about oils
Can we use oils from the grocery store?
What’s the difference between moisturizing and hydrating?
Can free fatty acids penetrate our skin?
Can oils penetrate our skin?

Can I substitute oils and butters in your formulas? (Short answer: yes!)

Stuff you find in oils
Polyphenols (updated)
Polyphenols: More in-depth information
Polyphenols: Quercetin & rutin
Polyphenols: Coumarins
Polyphenols: Caffeic acid & its derivatives
Polyphenols: Cinnamic acid
Polyphenols: Hydroxybenzoic acids (updated)
Polyphenols: Tannins and catechins (updated)
Polyphenols: proanthocyanidins and procyanidins (updated)
        Proanthocyanidins and procyanidins in green tea extract (updated)

Phytosterols (updated)
Vitamin A (updated)
Carotenoids (updated)

Vitamin E – subscribers’ exclusive

Apricot kernel oil (updated)
Argan oil
Avocado oil (updated)
Babassu oil (updated)
Baobab oil – updated!
Blackberry oil
Blueberry seed oil
Borage oil (updated)
Calendula oil (updated)
Camellia oil (updated)
Carrot tissue oil (updated)
Castor oil
Chia seed oil – NEW! (updated)
Coconut oil (updated)
Cranberry oil (updated)
Cucumber seed oil – NEW!
Emu oil
Evening primrose oil (updated)
Fractionated coconut oil (updated)
Grapeseed oil
Hazelnut oil (updated)
Hemp seed oil
Jojoba oil (updated)
Kukui nut – part one (updated)
Kukui nut – part two (updated)
Lecithin (updated)
Macadamia nut oil
Meadowfoam seed oil – updated
Neossance Hemisqualane (Patreon exclusive)
Olive oil (updated)
Palm oil – NEW! (updated)
Palm kernel oil – NEW! (updated)
Plum kernel oil – NEW! (updated)
Pomegranate oil (updated)
Pumpkin seed oil (updated)
Raspberry oil
Rice bran oil (updated)
Rosehip oil
Rosehip seed oil – NEW!  (updated)
Sea buckthorn oil (updated)
Soy bean oil (updated)
Sesame oil (updated)
Squalene (squalane) – updated
     Updated post on squalane
Sunflower oil (updated)
     Updated post on sunflower oil – updated
Sweet almond oil
Virgin coconut oil
Walnut oil
Watermelon seed oil (updated)
Wheat germ oil

Cocoa butter (updated)
Mango butter (updated)
Shea butter (updated)
Other butters 

Hydrogenated butters

Coffee butter


Better living through chemistry: Esters (updated)

The chemistry of esters (updated)
Spreadability, tackiness & greasiness (updated)
Esters & fragrances
What are PEG- esters? (updated)
What are PPG- esters? (updated)

Specific ester posts
C12-15 alkyl benzoate (aka EmEster or Crodamol AB) – updated
Cetearyl ethylhexanoate (updated)
Cetyl esters (updated)
Coco caprylate (subscriber exclusive)
Cromollient SCE (subscriber exclusive)
Cromollient SCE akaDi-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate
Ethylhexyl palmitate (updated)
Glycol distearate (aka EZ Pearl)
Isopropyl myristate (updated)
Isopropyl palmitate (updated)
PEG-7 olivate (updated)
PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate (aka Crodamol PMP)
PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate (aka Crodamol STS)

PEG-50 shea butter (aka water soluble shea) – updated
Super Sterol Esters (or C10-30 cholesterol esters) (updated)

Oil & butter related downloads (PDF)

Sorry, I had to remove all the charts as people were taking it and selling it, and that’s not okay.