In this post, Modifying the facial cleanser even more with hydrolyzed proteins, Jamil asked: Could I substitute Sepimax ZEN for the Crothix in the cleanser for oily skin recipe and then add dermabrasion crystals to make it a scrub? If so at what Percentage? The crystals did not stay suspended with Crothix.
Yes! Sepimax ZEN can handle electrolytes and surfactants, so you can totally turn a facial cleanser recipe into a gel using this ingredient! And it’s super easy to do!
What I would do with this recipe is take out the Crothix at 2%, and substitute 2% to 3% Sepimax ZEN into it at the end. I’ve used a titch less water than the original recipe – it was 51.5% and now it’s 48.5% – as I’m adding 3% ZEN. If you find this too thick, try 2% ZEN.
ZEN doesn’t play well with hydrolyzed proteins or cationic polymers like polyquaternium 7, but we can include them here because we’re using 3% ZEN and any loss of viscosity is kinda okay. If you want it thicker, take those out and you’ll have quite a thick gel.
FACIAL CLEANSER FOR OILY SKIN WITH SEPIMAX ZEN
15% C14-16 olefin sulfonate
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cationic polymer – I like polyquat 7
2% hydrolyzed protein
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
48.5% distilled water
SEPIMAX ZEN PHASE
3% Sepimax ZEN
Weigh the surfactant phase of the product into a container and mix. I suggest using a fork and mixing so you don’t get a ton of bubbles. It’s not the end of the world if it gets bubbly, but you’ll have to wait a few days for the bubbles to go down.
When the product is uniform, add the water, then mix again until it is blended. Again, try to avoid too many bubbles.
Sprinkle the Sepimax ZEN over the top of the surfactant in the container and leave it for 8 hours. I really mean this. Walk away, and don’t even look at it until 8 hours or more have passed! Yes, I know it’s hard to do that, but it’s the best way for the product to thicken up!
If you want to add dermabrasion crystals to it, please don’t go over the suggested usage rate to start. The ones I have say 1% to 10% so stay within those boundaries until you see how your skin reacts to them.
If you’d like to see more posts about using Sepimax ZEN, check out my e-zine on the topic – Gels, Gels, Gels! – or keep watching this space for more!