(Member exclusive) Potential duplication of Tatcha One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil (part one)

(Member exclusive) Potential duplication of Tatcha One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil (part one)

In the February 2018 duplicating post, Kathy FK asked if we could duplicate Tatcha One Step Camellia Cleansing Oil. Sure, we can give it a try!

What does the company say about this product? “Begin with dry hands and a dry face. Apply 1-2 pumps into the palm of your hand and massage onto face, including around the eyes. Rinse off with warm water. The oil will emulsify into a milk and effortlessly melt away makeup and debris.”

So this is a cleanser that works a bit like emulsified sugar scrubs – apply it to your skin, then as you rinse, it’ll turn into something akin to a lotion to stay behind to offer moisturizing loveliness.

Step one: Get the complete ingredient list…

Ingredient list: Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Algae Extract, Aqua/Water/Eau, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Glycerin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum/Fragrance, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol

Step two: Look at what each ingredient brings to the product. 

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate: This is a very light, silky, non-greasy feeling ester that spreads nicely on our skin. (As an aside, it’s one of my favourites!)

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oill: This light to medium viscosity oil has a nice balance of oleic and fatty acids with a great dose of Vitamin E and a ton of physosterols, which act as anti-inflammatories. It has a medium greasy feel for an oil – if soy bean and sunflower oil are at one end and grapeseed and macadamia nut are at the other end, this one is in the middle.

Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate: This is a polyglyceryl ester of a fatty acid. Huh? We all know fatty acids as those things we find in oils, like oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, and so on, and we know esters are derived from acids, like fatty acids. The polyglyceryl part means they have multiple glycerin molecules, so they are all slightly hydrophilic or water loving.

From Surfactants (O’Lenick, page 189): Polyglyceryl esters are useful o/w and w/o emulsifiers. The more lipophilic members of this group (such as polyglyceryl-10 decaoleate) are reported to produce stable w/o emulsions.”

From the CIR Review: Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids are polar or amphiphilic lipids, and the amphiphilic properties in water exhibit mesomorphic activities forming lyotropic liquid crystals. The polyglyceryl ester as a polar emulsifier will form aggregated bodies, such as micelles, at low concentrations in water. Polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids become unstable with water and high temperatures, and the instability is enhanced in the presence of alkaline substances. The presence of an alkali or acid results in the partial hydrolysis of fatty acids and the formation of free polyglycerol.”

To summarize: These are emulsifiers that can create oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. They don’t do well with water, high temperatures, or with alkaline ingredients or those with a pH of 8 or higher. They seem to do well with acids either, so these are best used in productst that don’t contain things like AHAs, salicylic acid, or fruit acids.

This ingredient is considered to be a great inclusion in an oil based cleanser like this one. One of the version I found – Salacos PG-218  (UL Prospector, so you might not get past the password bit) – states it’s great in wet conditions, so it suggests you put it on your wet hands to apply it to your wet face. This is a bit different than the suggestions for this product. This version is soluble in ethanol and isopentyldiol, and almost soluble in olive oil, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylhexyl palmitate (ester), cetyl ethylhexanoate (ester), neopentylglycol dicaprate, triethylhexanoin, isononoyl, isononanoate, and caprylic/capric triglyceride. It’s insoluble in squalane, mineral oil, glycerin, water, dimethicone, and cyclomethicone.

Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquicaprylate: Another polyglyceryl ester that’ll work as an emulsifier. This one is probably derived from coconut oil as it has the word -caprylate in there.

I found this one on UL Prospector as Salacos DG-158, and it is much the same as the previous entry as it works well in oil based cleansers when used with wet hands on a wet face.

This is insoluble in mineral oil, squalane, olive oil, dimethicone, cyclomethicone. It’s soluble in water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethylhexyl palmitate (ester), cetyl ethylhexanoate (ester), neopentylglycol dicaprate, triethylhexanoin, isononoyl, isononanoate, and caprylic/capric triglyceride. And it’s almost soluble in glycerin.

The company noted for either ingredient, “Silicones, Vegetable oils and Squalane can also be soluble if Monoesters or Mineral Oil is included.” They demonstrated a 3:1 ratio of cetyl ethylhexanoate or ethylhexylpalmitate with sunflower oil, squalane, or safflower oil could be incorporated. I will be sharing more about this shortly

So these two things are liquid emulsifiers we can include to make the product rinse more cleanly.

As a note, I have a series about esters I’ll be sharing shortly, but for now, here are a few links…

Great article on the chemistry of these esters!

If you can get through on UL Prospector, this is a great article! 

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil: This is a relation to camellia seed oil (Camellia sinensis seed oil) but it’s supposed to be heavier. Honestly, I couldn’t find a good resource about this type of oil, but I did find out that it’s called tsubaki oil and you can press your own at this place in Japan! “Indeed, the main fatty acids are oleic acid C18:1 (>80%), linoleic acid C18:2 (1-5%) and palmitic acid C16:0 (4-12%) but with a relative low content in tocopherols (190 mg/kg) and sterols content (47 mg/100g).” It’s very similar to the other oil, so I think either could be used in this formulation.

Reference: Tsubaki (Camellia japonica) cold-pressed oil: composition, protection from oxidation and moisturizing properties

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract: Green tea extract contains all kinds of lovely things, like caffeine and polyphenols. I generally use a powdered extract at 0.5%, but we can find water soluble or oil soluble liquids we can use at up to 10%.

Algae Extract: It’s hard to know what this might be, but it could be Pepha-Tight, a water soluble ingredient that claims that it can protect human fibroblasts from oxidative stress, increase the formation of collagen in our skin, and promotes a long term tightening effect. Nannochloropsis oculata is a phytoplankton that contains high levels of B12. It is fermented to produce more of the good stuff we want in a cosmeceutical (see below). Pullalen is a glucan gum produced by black yeast that behaves as a film former and binder and also provides a skin tightening effect which can lead to a smoother skin texture.

Aqua/Water/Eau: It’s water, and it’s way down the list!

Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate: This is a gelling ingredient that increases the viscosity of oil based products. It’s a solid ester – you can tell because the name is -oate. It’s related to glyceryl stearate, a low HLB emulsifier, which we use in Lotionpro™/Simulsol 165. The behen- part comes from behenic acid, a fatty acid with 22 carbons, which is where we get behentrimonium methosulfate or behentrimonium chloride, which we find in conditioners like Incroquat BTMS-50.

As another aside, I’ve been playing with some lovely solid esters like cetyl palmitate over the last six months, and I think we could use some of those in these kinds of products. 

Glycerin: A humectant that draws water from the atmosphere to our skin. It might be on its own or part of another ingredient.

Ethylhexylglycerin: This is part of a preservative system when combined with phenoxyethanol.

Parfum/Fragrance: Makes it smell pretty!

Alcohol: This could be part of a preservative system or as part of an extract.

Phenoxyethanol: It has good activity against Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria as well as yeast, and is generally paired up with another preservative – a quaternium, benzoic acid, or parabens to increase the fungal fighting abilities. It is compatible with non-ionic ingredients and proteins. I think this is Euxyl PE9010, which is oil soluble.

What do we have after looking at this ingredient list? This is a slightly thickened oil based facial cleanser that contains two esters that turn it into a lotion when water is added. It contains rice bran oil, camellia oil, and cetyl ethylhexanoate as the liquid oils to act as emollients. It has two extracts – green tea and algae extracts – along with a gelling agent to make to make the product thicker than just the oils. Finally, it has a broad spectrum preservative to prevent contamination.

As this is super long, join me tomorrow for step three of duplicating a product – figuring out what’s important for the product – and step four – figuring out how much of each ingredient to use!

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