Emulsifiers & solubilizers

If you’d like to learn a ton of stuff about making lotions and using these emulsifiers, please check out these e-zines and e-books…

Lotion Making 101

Formulating Lotions & Creams

Beyond E-wax: Theories, write ups, and base formulas (part one of the series)

Beyond E-wax: Modifications and substitutions (part two of the series)

Cold emulsifiers

Green & plant based emulsifiers

 

CONCEPTS

Back to the basics: Defining our terms for lotions

A slightly more in-depth look at emulsification

Emulsifiers and usage amounts

Liquid crystal emulsifiers

Basic lotion making instructions

Shear (mixing with immersion or stick blenders)

Where to start duplicating Lush products?

 

NON-IONIC EMULSIFIERS

Emulsifying wax NF

Lotionpro™ 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)

Montanov 68 (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) cetearyl glucoside)

Natragem EW (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)

Olivem 800 (INCI: Ceteareth-6 Olivate)

Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl olivate (and) Sorbitan olivate)

Polawax

Simulgreen 18-2 (INCI: Hydroxystearyl Alcohol and Hydroxystearyl Glucoside)

Simulsol 165 (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate)

Lush’s main emulsifier (stearic acid & triethanolamine)

 

CATIONIC OR POSITIVELY CHARGED EMULSIFIERS

Incroquat BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) butylene glycol)

Rita BTMS-225 or Incroquat BTMS-25 (INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol)

Varisoft EQ 65 (INCI: Distearoylethyl dimonium chloride (and) cetearyl alcohol)

 

ANIONIC OR NEGATIVELY CHARGED EMULSIFIERS

Ritamulse SCG (INCI: Glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate)

 

COLD PROCESS EMULSIFIERS

Aristoflex AVC

Emulthix or RM-2051

Sepiplus 400 ‘

 

SOLUBILIZERS OR INGREDIENTS THAT HELP INCORPORATE SMALL AMOUNTS OF OIL INTO WATER BASED PRODUCTS

Solublilizers – some comparisons

Caprylyl/capryl glucoside (CCG)

Making fragrance sprays with CCG 

Cromollient SCE

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil

My testing methods with PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and fragrance or essential oils

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil – the results for Black Amber Lavender and Clementine Cupcake

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil – Yuzu fragrance oil and peppermint essential oil

Polysorbate 20 and 80

THE HYDROPHILIC-LIPOPHILIC BALANCE SYSTEM (HLB)

HLB system – overview

HLB system – introduction to the series

A demonstration (part one)

A demonstration (part two)

Work this one out! 

Don’t fear the math! 

Answers to work this one out!

Let’s get slightly more complicated

Substituting in the oil phase

How do we know the correct HLB value for oils and butters?

Using different emulsifiers and a formula

A body butter formula

Silicones and the HLB system