Cosmetic chemistry: Oxidative stability index or oil stability index (OSI)

Let’s take a look at this concept before we meet a new emollient, jojoba esters 15! Woo hoo! What is the OSI? OSI – oxidative stability index or oil stability index – is a measurement in hours of the “relative resistance of fat and oil samples to oxidation”, an approved method by the American Oil...

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Q&A: Are only natural oils or butters prone to oxidation? Are water soluble ingredients? How can we protect these ingredients?

In the monthly Q&A, Noémie asked, Hi Susan, I’m a new subscriber and I love your work. I’m a beginner and I have a quite basic question : why only natural oils/butters are prone to oxidation ? If I well understood, oxidation occurs on double bonds in hydrocarbon chains, but don’t esters (derived from natural fatty...

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A review of rancidity and anti-oxidants

I’m always surprised to see how much worry there is about rancidity when it’s something we don’t encounter as often as you’d imagine. Won’t you join me on an exciting adventure to learn more about rancidity in our products? What is rancidity? Rancidity is when our oils “go off” and smell horrible after being exposed...

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Weekend Wonderings: Covering up medicinal hydrosol smells? How long does Vitamin E extend a shelf life? What is rosemary extract – anti-oxidant or preservative?

COVERING UP MEDICINAL HYDROSOL SMELLS IN A TONER?In this post, Making a toner for the oily skin type, Lynda asks: I made the toner recipe above and I don’t like the way it smells. I love the scent of fresh rosemary, but the brand new rosemary hydrosol I opened to make this has a medicine smell...

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