Naturally compliant

Esters: Making a light and non-greasy ECOCERT hand & body lotion with simple esters

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Catch up on this series: Part one, the chemistry and nomenclature of esters; part two, types of esters and their sensory characteristics; and part three, chemistry of the sensory characteristics. We also took a look at the hydrolysis of esters, and simple esters!  The other day, we met this lovely, silky, non-greasy, naturally compliant simple ester...

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#alltheingredients: AminoSensyl™ SC (cationic emulsifier, skin care)

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AminoSensyl™ SC (INCI: Brassica alcohol (and) Brassica Valinate Esylate (and) Brassica Glycerides) is a close cousin to AminoSensyl™ HC, but it has the added Brassica Glycerides to thicken the product. This one is designed for higher oil loads than its cousin – up to 40% oil phase! Wow! They note this emulsifier creates rich textures,...

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#alltheingredients: Brassicyl Valinate Esylate and Brassicyl Isoleucinate Esylate (cationic ester, conditioning)

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Brassicyl Valinate Esylate is an “amino acid lipid” derived from the amino acid, valine. It’s cationic or positively charged, so it acts as a conditioning agent that’s substantive to hair and skin, but it isn’t a quaternary compound, like behentrimonium methosulfate, behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, or polyquaternium 7 to name a few. This ingredient is...

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Acids, bases, and pH – oh my! Creating a light, non-greasy summer weight lotion with Varisoft EQ 65 (part three, formula and pH)

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If you want to catch up on the acids, bases, and pH – oh my! series, please visit the pH & pH meter section of the blog!  On the 7th, we created the water phase of this light summery lotion with Varisoft EQ 65, and yesterday, we looked at the oil phase and considered which...

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Acids, bases, and pH – oh my! Creating a light, non-greasy summer weight lotion with Varisoft EQ 65 (part two, the oil phase)

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Let’s pick up where we left off yesterday in creating this light, non-greasy summer weight lotion using Varisoft EQ 65. We figured out what we wanted to include in our water phase, so let’s take a look at the oil phase. As I mentioned yesterday, I’m using Varisoft EQ 65 as the emulsifier to create a...

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