How can we adapt our formulas to be more natural? Creating an ECOcert emulsifier using the HLB system

Originally posted to Patreon on Dec 4, 2017 at 5:21am Yesterday, we took a look at some of the all-in-one ECOcert emulsifierswe can use in the potential duplication for the Josie Maran Whipped Body Butter, but we could make our own emulsification system using the HLB system as we did in part two of that duplication.In general,…...

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Weekend Wonderings: How do I figure out if I can use some ingredients as emulsifiers? Why add cetyl alcohol to a recipe with e-wax?

HOW DO I FIGURE OUT IF I CAN USE TWO EMULSIFIERS TOGETHER?In this post, How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers, Mette asks: I have some questions which I hope you can help me with. I am trying to make a baby lotion and I have Sucrose Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate and Cetearyl Alcohol on my hands. As…...

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Weekend Wonderings: How do self-emulsifying emulsifiers work within the HLB system?

HOW DO SELF-EMULSIFYING EMULSIFIERS WORK IN THE HLB SYSTEM?In the same Weekend Wondering post, kiev asks: As I am new to lotion making and have done some of the no no’s you have listed. I am trying to understand the HLB system and that has prompted a question regarding Ewax or any self emulsifying system…....

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Why didn’t I use the HLB system to create the lotion in the Garnier product?

You’re probably wondering why I didn’t use the HLB system to create the lotion in the Garnier product. Let’s take a look at it! The only oils we really have in the mix are the IPP (I’m using it at 1%) and the fatty alcohols. I’m going to use 3% cetearyl alcohol but you can…...

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HLB system: Using different emulsifiers and a formula

I’ve been using glycol distearate (HLB 1) and ceteareth-20 (HLB 15.2) as my emulsifiers for these HLB posts, but you can use any combination you wish as long as you have a low HLB emlusifier and an high HLB emulsifier in the mix. Here’s what I have in my workshop right now: glycol distearate –…...

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Question: How do we know the correct HLB value of oils and butters?

Melian poses some very interesting questions in this post, and I thought they needed to be answered here! Bear with me as this is a really long post (not that I’m the Queen of Succint-land on normal days, but this one seems really long!) I’m finding disagreements on the hlb of a few oils. how…...

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HLB system: Substituting things in our oil phase

Let’s take one last look at the HLB system for making our own emulsifiers before we return to duplicating products. Remember that if you make a change to any of the oil soluble ingredients you’ll need to re-calculate your emulsifier! If you’re going from one vegetable oil to another – soy bean oil to sunflower…...

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HLB system: Let’s get slightly more complicated

The one down side of using the HLB system is that you have to figure out the HLB of the oil phase if you change an ingredient (unless you’re substituting one vegetable based oil for another one, but even then jojoba could throw you off because it’s 6.5, fractionated coconut oil is 5.5, and emu…...

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HLB system: Answers to working it out!

All right! How did you do with yesterday’s challenge to figure out how much emulsifier to use in this recipe? Don’t worry – it wasn’t a trick question (I always hate those in math exams)! I’ve realized this was really silly to post this on Easter Sunday because most of you were enjoying your Easter…...

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HLB system: Work this one out!

Now you try it! Here’s a recipe (originally found in this post) on which you can practice your mad HLB figuring out skills! BODY BUTTER FOR ITCHY WINTER SKIN WITH MINIMALLY PROCESSED INGREDIENTSWATER PHASE25% water10% aloe vera10% chamomile hydrosol10% witch hazel2% hydrolyzed protein5% tamarind seed extract3% glycerin0.5% allantoin OIL PHASE10% soy bean oil7.5% cocoa butter7.5%…...

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