esters

An aside: Let’s talk about drier feeling oils…

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A few people have asked me about astringent oils lately, and the main question is “are they drying?” Allow me to recap a post from last year with a bit more detail… An astringent is actually defined as “chemical that tends to shrink or constrict body tissues, usually locally after topical medicinal application.” By definition...

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Question: How to use polysorbates in our products?

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Shana writes to me: I was reading one of your old blogs about water soluble oils and you stated this: “There are two ways to make water soluble oils – you can mix an oil with an emulsifier (usually polysorbate 80) to make an oil water soluble” You did not explain how to do this exactly. Could you...

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Experiments in the workshop: Intense conditioner with all my conditioning agents (updated)

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I do love a good conditioner, and even more so since the incident with the Dremel left me with a big chunk of hair that has been really really damaged. I wouldn’t normally combine cetrimonium bromide and BTMS-50 in a conditioner as they don’t play well together and tend to separate, but I need some...

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Experiments in the workshop: Whipped shea without butter – complicated with esters version

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I know the cetearyl alcohol will keep my oils whippy, light, and not separating, so I think I’ll try a version with esters to make it feel less occlusive and less thick. I’m using my favourite ester, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, to make the product feel very light and non-greasy, and the IPM (or IPP) to increase the...

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Esters: A wrap-up

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So what have we learned about esters so far? We’ve learned about the chemistry – click here for that post! – and we’ve learned they generally spread better and detackify other ingredients in our products, and can help reduce the feeling of greasiness from other oils. We’ve learned that some are oil soluble and some, like...

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