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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble shea butter

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As I mentioned in yesterday’s post, I like water soluble olive oil! It gives me a chance to add some moisturizing to products that normally wouldn’t contain oils, like body washes or toners. Today’s favourite ingredient is similar to yesterday’s – water soluble shea butter (INCI: PEG-50 shea butter). Like the water soluble olive oil...

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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble olive oil

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I love love love water soluble oils! Water soluble oils are oils that have been esterified to become more water soluble. Some of them can be used as emulsifiers – like Cromollient SCE – but all of them can be used in water only creations, like body washes or shampoos. One of my favourites is water...

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Weekend Wonderings: It’s all about the polysorbates, baby!

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There were a few questions about polysorbate 20 this week, so let’s take a look at those comments! WILL HEATING HELP AN EMULSION WITH POLYSORBATE 20? In this post, Polysorbate 20 vs. polysorbate 80, Sam F asks, Do you think heating will aide an o/w emulsion when adding 0.3% eo’s & 1.2% polysorbate 20 to water?...

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Question: What’s the deal with coco-caprylate caprate?

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In this post, Aesthete asks: Based on your experience with Coco-Caprylate Caprate, how is it compared to C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate and dimethicone? Occlusive? Spreading? After-feel? Is it comedogenic? Great question, Aesthete! I decided to do a little test by comparing coco-caprylate caprate against fractionated coconut oil (INCI caprylic/capric triglycerides), C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and cetearyl...

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Why did I buy that again? Cera bellina – making oily gels

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I’ve been dying to make an oily gel since I heard I could do it with Sucragel AOF – which was an epic fail – so I was excited to see that I could use cera bellina in that capacity. I read that 10% should make a thicker oily gel, so I thought I’d start...

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