Conditioner bars: Why the process is so important and why I don’t recommend using coconut oil

Someone asked me why their conditioner bars were soft in the syndet shampoo bar group I admin with Jo-Anne Emery on Facebook, and they shared their variation on my formula in which they’ve included 5% coconut oil and an unknown butter, and I thought I’d expand on what I shared with them over there… Important...

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An aside on using BTMS-50 and BTMS-25 together in a conditioner bar! 

There’s absolutely no need to use both BTMS-25 and BTMS-50 in a conditioner bar as they contain the same ingredients. If you wanted to add cetearyl alcohol to a BTMS-50 formula, just buy it on its own as it’s about 75% cheaper! If we have a formula that’s 60% BTMS-50, we have 30% BTMS and...

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Q&A: Does isododecane or propanediol 1,3 go into the heated or cool down phase? What does lemon shine smell like? Questions about my epic rinse off conditioner formula!

In the monthly Q&A, Susan asked, I recently made your Epic Rinse Out Conditioner and am very happy with it but I have a couple of questions … If I’m correct, isododecane is a volatile ingredient so I’m wondering why it’s added to the warmed water phase rather than at cool down. Also, I’ve seen propanediol...

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#alltheingredients: Poly Suga Quat L-1010P (INCI: Polyquaternium 78) with formulas!

This conditioning ingredient profile appeared in its original form in the e-book, Shiny things, volume 3: Things that distracted me, issued in November 2019. This is is the kind of material I share in these e-books – ingredient profiles, emollient profiles, other profiles along with formulas to show you how to use them.  Many are exclusive...

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Q&A: Why do positively charged (cationic) conditioning agents smell fishy or earthy?

Have you ever caught a whiff of a positively charged conditioner like Incroquat BTMS-50 or Honeyquat and wondered why it smelled fishy? There’s nothing wrong with the product: You’re smelling the ammonium salt in the cationic quaternary compound! Some people can smell it, some can’t. It’s hard to know if you’ll be a smeller or...

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