Chemistry

#alltheingredients: TKB Thickening clay – part three, version 1

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The suggestion and recipes shared by TKB Trading for this thickening clay didn’t work for me, so I thought I’d go on a quest for other formulas I could try at home to succeed with this ingredient. I found a formula that called for fractionated coconut oil and isopropyl myristate (IPM) as the oils with 3%...

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#alltheingredients: TKB Thickening clay (INCI: Quaternium-90 Sepiolite (and) Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite) – part two

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Welcome back from the aside on polar oils and isododecane! Let’s take a look at working with this ingredient! To recap the series so far… Potential duplication of Tarte Frxxxtion Exfoliating Stick (part one) Practice your process: Choose the right preservative for the job #alltheingredients: Thickening clay (part one) Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils?...

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Creating cleansing conditioners: A rant about not combining anionic and cationic ingredients, plus loads of links to formulas

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Warning: Rant ahead! (I’m ranting a lot this week, eh?) In my class on Saturday, one of the participants  shared with me before we started that she didn’t think she was cut out for formulating. She tried a recipe from a DIY blog for a conditioning shampoo that combined 14% SCI and 5% foaming silk with...

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#alltheingredients Isododecane

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Isododecane is a hydrocarbon alkane with no double bonds. It’s a non-polar, oil soluble molecule that only contains carbon and hydrogen atoms. We can use it as an oily ingredient anywhere we might use natural oils or butters (vegetable, seed, and animal oils), as well as with esters and silicones. It’s considered an isoparaffin. More...

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Chemistry: How to read a molecule

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I can’t remember where I shared this recently, so if it was on the blog, I apologize for repeating myself, but I thought it was an important subject.   This is a cetyl alcohol molecule. Each of these peaks or valleys represents a carbon molecule. To each carbon molecule, if it isn’t specified, it’s assumed...

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