Some thoughts on what you could do for a cucumber body butter – anhydrous whipped butters

Let’s say the horrible recipe we met Saturday for a homemade cucumber body butter sounded appealing to you, but you don’t want it to separate or become contaminated in a few days, what could you do? If you wanted to make an anhydrous or non-water containing whipped butter with just oils and butters, you could use … Read more

Members’ Q&A: Adding slip and glide to lotion bars?

In the April Q&A, Gabriella asked: I’m trying to make a lotion bar; however, the product doesn’t glide on smooth like a lip balm would. It bunches in my skin (like in the picture) and the product goes on the side of my container tube making it messy to put the cap on. Should I increase...

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Members’ Q&A: Formulating a dry oil spray?

In the April Q&A, Laura asked: I’m wondering if there is a recipe on the site anywhere for a dry oil spray or if it’s simply Cyclomethicone with some fragrance oil in it? I did try searching but my words ‘dry oil’ only turn up things for dry skin, I can’t find an actual recipe so...

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Members exclusive: Formulas I would have offered at the US conference: Anhydrous facial serum

I was scheduled to offer a seminar on facial products at the US conference in Atlanta in early May, but had to cancel due to my ongoing pain issues, so I present to you the formulas I would have shared at the sold out (30 participants) $89 per person seminar. I love a good anhydrous...

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Membership exclusive Q&A: What solubilizer can I use in a cleansing oil like MAC’s Cleanse Off Oil?

In the March Q&A, Melanie asked: I have a question about Polysorbate 80. I purchased some to experiment with but have since discovered that this is the magical substance that turns oils into milky rinse off formulas in products such as MAC Cleanse Off Oil. I found a recipe that used Polysorbate 80 at 10% with...

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Member exclusive Q&A: Could I add BTMS-50 to an oil cleanser?

In the March Q&A, Stephany asked: So I have made a simple gentle (morning with no makeup) oil cleanser with FCO and cromollient (solubilizer) and I am looking for ways to make it feel more luxurious, thick, and silky without using silicones because my skin usually doesn’t like them. Current Recipe: 98% FCO (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 2%...

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Member exclusive duplication: Argan Oil of Morocco Penetrating Oil (part two)

In the February 2018 duplicating post, Elin asked if we could duplicate the Argan Oil of Morocco Penetrating Oil? Sure! In yesterday’s post, we took a look what each ingredient might do in the product. Today, let’s take a look at how we might make a starting formula for this duplication by figuring out how...

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Member exclusive duplication: Argan Oil of Morocco Penetrating Oil (part one with asides)

In the February 2018 duplicating post, Elin asked if we could duplicate the Argan Oil of Morocco Penetrating Oil? Sure! What does this product do? “This one-of-a-kind oil is our secret to hair’s silky perfection. Infused with argan oil, it helps nutrients seep into the hair shaft to protect each strand from styling heat and...

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Member exclusive Q&A: How to thicken oils that won’t be greasy? Fatty alcohols, fatty acids, liquid esters, and solid esters, plus a formula for a whipped not-butter

On February 11, we took a look at ways to thicken oils that won’t be greasy. Today, let’s look at a few other ways to thicken oils! A few years ago – holy cow, was that in 2010? – I did some experiments thickening oils with cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, and complicated with...

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