#alltheingredients: Gellan gum (Kelcogel® CG-LA) – rheology modifier, gelling ingredient

A massive thank you to Shannon of IMCD for introducing me to and sending me this ingredient! I didn’t think I could love working with gums, but she made me a believer! 🙂 We’ll be making two products over the few weeks with this – a lovely fluffy Moisture Renewal Body Wash and those gorgeous, Blooming Jelly…...

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#alltheingredients: Sodium cocoyl glutamate (surfactant)

Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a negatively charged or anionic foamy, bubbly, lathery surfactant derived from amino acids. It’s considered incredibly mild and doesn’t defat the skin like some other, less mild surfactants might. You might find it described as having a “comfortable and soft feeling to skin during and after use”, and it’s noted constantly…...

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#alltheingredients: Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (surfactant)

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine is an amphoteric surfactant related to cocamidopropyl betaine, known as a sulfobetaine. It’s derived from coconut oil, and is biodegradable. It’s water soluble through a large pH range, reduces irritation of other surfactants, and may thicken bubbly and lathery things, like bubble baths or body washes. Because it’s cationic – thanks to a…...

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#alltheingredients: Sodium cocoyl glycinate (surfactant)

As you probably know, I’m a huge surfactant junkie – they’re like Pokemon, I have to catch them all! – so I thought I’d introduce you to another surfactant I adore, sodium cocoyl glycinate. I used this one a lot in the e-zine, Surfactants: Making foaming facial cleansers, as it’s lovely and mild for all…...

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Q&A: What’s zinc PCA and how do I formulate with it? (#alltheingredients)

In the July Q&A, Charlette asked, I’ve been looking into developing some skincare for acne/break out prone skin. I’ve been reading about Zinc PCA-but cannot find it ANYWHERE among our usual wonderful suppliers. I ended up requesting samples on Knowde. From what I read-it is not the same as Zinc Oxide? Do you have any suggestions…...

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#alltheingredients: Bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane – a water soluble silicone wax!

I’m having a serious love affair with this water soluble silicone wax – Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane – that melts at 29˚C to 34˚C – 84˚F to 92˚F, well below body temperature – which you might find as Gransil VX-406. It offers a silky, smooth, powdery skin feel without being too waxy or draggy, the…...

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#alltheingredients: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (surfactant)

We first met this surfactant in the e-zine, Shiny Things, volume one, then again in Surfactants, part one: A reference guide e-zine. I also wrote about it in part one of my favourite ingredients for 2017. It’s one that I use a lot these days, so let’s get to know it!  As a note, I’ve…...

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Q&A: Why is sorbitan olivate in my facial cleanser? And stuff about structured liquids!

In the June Q&A, Heather asked, Can you talk about “coconut alcohol”? I know that it is used an emulsifier but cannot find any place to source the ingredient. It is being used in Oseas Ocean Cleansing Mud. When reading the ingredients list it piqued my curiosity and want to know more about it. They are…...

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Q&A: What’s coconut alcohol? (#alltheingredients)

In the June Q&A, Heather asked, Can you talk about “coconut alcohol”? I know that it is used an emulsifier but cannot find any place to source the ingredient. It is being used in Oseas Ocean Cleansing Mud. When reading the ingredients list it piqued my curiosity and want to know more about it. They are…...

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Article link: Into the weeds: Walking the regulatory line of CBD

I received an newsletter today from a supplier that included some kits to make bath bombs or lotion bars that included CBD, so I wanted to share this article from this month’s C&T… Into the Weeds: Walking the Regulatory Line of CBD in Cosmetics. It’s written from an American point of view, but I think…...

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