Q&A: What the heck is coconut acid? #alltheingredients

In the June Q&A, Andrea asked, Another question about ingredients: in the list below what the heck is coconut acid?  A proprietary and moisturizing blend of sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, coconut acid, water/aqua/eau, coco glucoside, sodium isethionate, argania spinosa (argan) kernel oil, panthenol (pro-vitamin b5), camellia sinensis (green tea) leaf extracts, humectants, sucrose cocoate, glycerin,…...

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Creating a light, lime-y emulsified scrub for summer! The formula and visual tutorial

Yesterday, we took a look at my new favourite summery lime-scented emulsified scrub. Let’s look at the formula and how to make this! Combine the heated phase into a glass container and place in the double boiler. I heated it until it all melted – around 70˚C – and left it for another 5 minutes to…...

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Creating an epic level rinse off conditioner: Altering the conditioning emulsifier

Holy cow, I didn’t expect this to be a series, but here we are! If you want to catch up with what we’ve been discussing over the last week or so, here’s the list of links! CONFIRMED! Formula for an epic level rinse off conditioner with behentrimonium chloride #alltheingredients: ICE Conditioner or JEEQUAT® NDCS or…...

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#alltheingredients: Quaternized lemon shine (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Lemon Protein)

I’ve shared this ingredient with you in a few posts –  creating shampoo bars from scratch, conditioners and cationic polymers, Q&A: Creating liquid volumizing shampoo? Part four – actives, and this one, Q&A: Creating conditioners that add volume and retain curls? Using conditioning agents that won’t weigh down hair – cationic polymers, and Q&A: What’s a…...

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Polyquats! Let’s take a closer look at polyquaterniums or cationic polymers, plus an aside about -trimoniums

I’ve written about this topic before – see this post – but I thought since I have so many more polyquats in my workshop, we should take a closer look at them.  What’s cationic polymer? A polymer is “Any of numerous natural and synthetic compounds of usually high molecular weight consisting of up to millions…...

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#alltheingredients: Keratin hydrolysate silox (hair care active)

On Saturday, I shared my new epic conditioner that uses ICE Conditioner or JEEQUAT® NDCS or Naturally Derived Conditioning System (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate.) On Sunday, we learned more about this ingredient, then on Monday, we made a cold process, light kukui nut oil conditioner or lotion with Jeequat® NDCS/ICE conditioner. Finally, in yesterday’s…...

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#alltheingredients: ICE Conditioner or JEEQUAT® NDCS or Naturally Derived Conditioning System.

I’ve shared some formulas with you using ICE Hair Restore or Jeesperse ICE-T CPCS (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium chloride (and) polyquaternium 37), a cold process hair conditioning emulsifier we can use to make to make quick conditioners without heating. Let’s meet another cold process emulsifier, ICE Conditioner or JEEQUAT® NDCS or Naturally Derived Conditioning System…....

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#alltheingredients are coming home with me!

It’s our last day in Paris, and we’re exhausted. We’re staying in to pack and organize for the long flight tomorrow. I can’t believe all these wonderful ingredients I’m bringing home courtesy of Jane of Making Skincare and our free course, Learn Cosmetic Formulation; Nanette of NV&O; Anja of Formulate Cosmetics; Alchemy Ingredients (Ascot); and…...

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#alltheingredients: TKB Thickening clay – part 6, Garamite 7308-XR

Thanks for joining me for yet another part of this series on how to use TKB Trading’s Thickening Clay (INCI: Quaternium-90 Sepiolite (and) Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite) as part of the Tarte Frxxxtion Exfoliating Stick potential duplication. Here are my previous attempts that didn’t work… #alltheingredients: Thickening clay (part one) #alltheingredients: Thickening clay, part two – my first…...

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#alltheingredients: TKB Thickening clay – part five, versions 3 & 4

I’m doing my best to work with this new ingredient, TKB Trading’s Thickening Clay (INCI: Quaternium-90 Sepiolite (and) Quaternium-90 Montmorillonite). So far I’ve tried a few suggestions and formulas from TKB Trading that didn’t work out so well, and a formula that I tried mixing with high shear and with a toothpick. All of these attempts…...

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