Member exclusive: Cromollient SCE micellar water

Cromollient SCE is a bit different than the solubilizers we’ve been playing with over the last few days in that it’s an emollient that offers moisturizing after application on our skin, which is simply lovely! We can make a really nice one using as little as 2% or increase it as high as 5% for...

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Member exclusive: Lightly fragrant champa micellar water (ECOcert)

When it comes to making an ECOcert micellar water, I turn to caprylyl/capryl glucoside, a non-ionic surfactant that helps us solubilize small amounts of water that works as the cleanser on our skin in the same way the PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides and polysorbate 80 worked. I have to admit something to you – I don’t...

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Solubilizers: Caprylyl/capryl glucoside

I wrote a bit about this solubilizer caprylyl/capryl glucoside in this post on glucoside surfactants, but let’s learn more about it now! Caprylyl/capryl glucoside (aka octyl/decyl glucoside or C8-10 alkyl polyglucoside) is an Ecocert non-ionic solubilizer with a pH of 5.5 to 6 that can be used as a solubilizer and a very gentle surfactant. It … Read more

(Membership exclusive) Ingredient: Geogard ECT, ECOcert, COSMOS, NPA preservative

As I’m trying to work with more ECOcert ingredients this year, I thought I’d share my thoughts on Geogard ECT, (INCI: Benzyl Alcohol & Salicylic Acid & Glycerin & Sorbic Acid), an ECOcert, COSMOS certified, NPA accepted broad spectrum preservative. It might also be found as Neopres ECT. Geogard ECT is a water soluble, low...

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Membership exclusive Q&A: What solubilizer can I use in a cleansing oil like MAC’s Cleanse Off Oil?

In the March Q&A, Melanie asked: I have a question about Polysorbate 80. I purchased some to experiment with but have since discovered that this is the magical substance that turns oils into milky rinse off formulas in products such as MAC Cleanse Off Oil. I found a recipe that used Polysorbate 80 at 10% with...

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Member exclusive formula: Refreshing peppermint micellar water

On March 14th, we took a look a what we might need to make micellar waters. Yesterday, we made a rose water micellar water with PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides. Let’s look at a few different versions we could make today… A popular inclusion as the surfactant is polysorbate 20 or polysorbate 80. I find they can...

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Member exclusive Q&A: Could I add BTMS-50 to an oil cleanser?

In the March Q&A, Stephany asked: So I have made a simple gentle (morning with no makeup) oil cleanser with FCO and cromollient (solubilizer) and I am looking for ways to make it feel more luxurious, thick, and silky without using silicones because my skin usually doesn’t like them. Current Recipe: 98% FCO (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride) 2%...

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Member exclusive: Let’s make a micellar water!

The other day, we took a look at micellar waters, so let’s see how we can make our own. Quick summary: Micellar waters are water based products that contain a lot of water and a few other ingredients at quite low percentages intended to be used as light, no rinse facial cleanser that removes make-up...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides

PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides is a non-sticky, non-ionic solubilizer or polyethylene glycol ester derived from coconuts we can use to solubilize small amounts of oils into water soluble products, like fragrance sprays, toners, and micellar waters. We can use it at 0.5% to 5% in the heated or cool down phase of our products. In micellar waters...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Esters: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE)

Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE) is a PPG ester we can use in just about every product we make, which is quite the claim! PPG esters are surfactants with a hydrophilic or water loving head and a lipophilic or fat loving tail, so they can bring together water and oil as a surfactant. They’re...

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