Susan Barclay-Nichols

Emollients you will love: Cranberry seed oil (updated December 28, 2021)

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Cranberry oil – INCI: Vaccinium macrocarpon (cranberry) seed oil – is an interesting oil. With 3 to 6% palmitic acid (C16), up to 2% stearic acid (C18), 22 to 26% oleic acid (C18:1), 30 to 38% linoleic acid (C18:2), and 20 to 38% linolenic acid (C18:3), you’d expect it to have a short shelf life...

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#alltheingredients: Ethylhexyl palmitate – Guerbet ester, low viscosity dimethicone substitute

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You can find the home page for the Guerbet ester series by clicking this link! I’ll update it every time we meet a new ester! I’ll be referring quite a lot to the the combining emollients series in which we learned how properties like viscosity, surface tension, saturation, molecule size, molecule weight, molecule shape, polarity, and...

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#alltheingredients: Isopropyl palmitate (IPP) – an isopropyl ester, updated 2021

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Isopropyl palmitate is related to isopropyl myristate (IPM), the difference being IPP is derived from palmitic fatty acid (C16) and IPM is derived from myristic fatty acid (C14). (Click here for the chemistry of esters!) Since we’re a little more familiar with IPM, we’ll end up contrasting and comparing the two at some point, so...

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Surfactants: Fatty acid isethionates (like sodium cocoyl isethionate or SCI) – updated February 12, 2021

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I do love the isethionates, found in the form of sodium cocoyl isethionate (SCI) or ammonium cocoyl isethionate (ACI). The sodium version comes in prills, flakes, or noodles, while the ammonium version comes in liquid form at 30% active. If you look at this picture, the M+ signifies either sodium or ammonium, both of which...

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Basic instructions for lotion making (updated August 15, 2020)

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These are what I consider to be the basic instructions for making lotions for most types of emulsifiers, including Polawax, emulsifying wax, Incroquat BTMS-50, Simulsol 165/Lotionpro™ 165, and more. Always check how the emulsifier you’re using needs to be used as this method won’t work for other emulsifiers, like Olivem 1000, Montanov 68 MB, Varisoft...

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