Member exclusive Q&A: What should be the pH of our finished products for fruit acid complex?

In the January Q&A, Marta asked: What is the recommended pH for a facial product containing fruit acid complex or willow bark extract? You have discussed concerns about a pH being too low in formulations containing (straight) alpha hydroxy acids or salicylic acid. Yet, should one be reducing the pH in a product containing fruit acid...

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Member exclusive Q&As: Do surfactants have a shelf life? Can we mix powdered extracts with oil? Do you have micellar water formulas?

In the January Q&A, Karen asked: I have a question regarding surfactants. Do they have a shelf life? I have tried the internet for information, but needless to say I have not gotten any definitive answers.  They do have a shelf life, something I confirmed recently in the ickiest way possible when I found a bottle...

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Member exclusive Q&A: How to incorporate water soluble ingredients into anhydrous bars using an emulsifier

In the January Patreon Q&A, Emmi asked how we could incorporate water soluble ingredients into lotion bars, then casually mentioned she had Varisoft EQ 65 (positively charged emulsifier that we can use as a hair conditioner) that she might be able to use as an emulsifier. Yes, this is possible, so let’s take a look at...

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Member exclusive Q&A: How can we incorporate water soluble ingredients into lotion bars?

In the January Q&A for Patreon subscribers, Emmi asked: I have been experimenting with lotion bars. Though I do like the butter/wax/oil bars, they are a bit too greasy for me, and not so glide-y. I’m thinking of trying next with some butter/jojobawax/caprylic capric triglycerides. I’m not sure if the triglycerides improve the glide enough, so...

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Member exclusive Q&A: Creating less greasy feeling, more glidy lotion bars? A few thoughts and a formula

In the January Q&A for Patreon subscribers, Emmi asked: I have been experimenting with lotion bars. Though I do like the butter/wax/oil bars, they are a bit too greasy for me, and not so glide-y. I’m thinking of trying next with some butter/jojobawax/caprylic capric triglycerides. I’m not sure if the triglycerides improve the glide enough, so...

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Discussion: How do you sanitize your workspace before formulating?

In the January 2018 Patreon Q&A post, Sima asked:  How do you sterilise your equipment such as pyrex jugs, beakers, spoons, spatulas, workbench etc before making a product? Can I start by saying I think it’s lovely that anyone would think I would know anything about being tidy given the state of my workshop? I...

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Member exclusive duplication: Youth to the People Kale + Green Tea Spinach Vitamins Age Prevention Cleanser (part three)

Let’s create a potential formula for this product, which is billed as a “Superfood face wash” that is “pH balanced” that is so multifaceted that you can use it as your daily toner, makeup remover, and gel cleanser.” If you want to follow along, check out part one of this post where we review the ingredient...

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Member exclusive Q&A: What’s the difference between caprylic/capric triglycerides and squalane?

In the January Q&A from Patreon, Camirra asked: I want to use Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides and/ or squalene in a facial serum. I already have Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides but have not tried squalene before. I want a light moisturizing facial oil that I can use in the morning. What is the difference between them? They both seem pretty...

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Member exclusive Q&A: What’s the deal with the emulsifier, Crodex A (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate), which we might find in Lush products?

In the January Q&A on Patreon, Tash asked: I found something that’s a bit intriguing, and couldn’t find a reference to it anywhere on your blog. This is a bit of weird product I’m scratching my head over. It seems archaic when compared to some of the nice e-waxes that have appeared lately : Crodex A: (Cetearyl...

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Member exclusive Q&A: Should Natragem EW be used with a thickener?

In the January Q&A from Patreon, Elin asked: Hello! Should Natragem EW be used with a thickener (i.e. cetyl alcohol) to ensure a stable emulsion? I recently made a simple lotion with Natragem and sometimes when I squeeze the lotion from the bottle the oil comes out. eek! Not sure what happened…Perhaps it is better to...

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