How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Incroquat BTMS-50

Incroquat BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) butylene glycol) is a great emulsifier, imparting a dryer, less greasy feel to our lotions. As it is cationic or positively charged, you’ll be making a positively charged lotion. (Emulsifying wax NF and Polawax are non-ionic, meaning they carry no electrical charge, while Ritamulse SCG is slightly … Read more

Weekend Wonderings: Is there a general rule about increasing/decreasing beeswax in lotion bars?

In this post on lotion bars, Tina asks: I’m trying to figure out if there’s a general rule for tweaking the basic recipe (33/33/33/1 -beeswax/butter/oil/fragrance). You said that, for example, with cocoa butter, you’d use less beeswax. So if I use beeswax at 25%, what’s the rule for altering the butter and oil? Does that now … Read more

Weekend Wonderings: Learning to make substitutions for ingredients and using decyl glucoside as a surfactant

I have to ask this question as well – if you are a beginner, why are you trying to make products from scratch? I’ve been getting quite a few e-mails and comments from people who are creating their own recipes and wondering why they won’t work. Please please please find a tried and true recipe … Read more