A more detailed look at decyl glucoside: Some basics about it and the pH

Decyl glucoside is a very mild non-ionic cleanser that works well as both a primary or secondary surfactant as it is a good foamer. It has an alkaline pH – 7 to 11.5 – so you’ll have to bring your pH down with citric acid or another acidic ingredient to ensure it reaches the right...

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How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Lotionpro 165

Lotionpro 165 (INCI Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG 100 Stearate) an all-in-one non-ionic emulsifier based on the HLB system used in our heated oil phase to emulsify water and oil together to creation lotions and other emulsified products. It has an HLB value of about 11.2. (You don’t need to know this in order to use it, but...

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How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Incroquat BTMS-50

Incroquat BTMS-50 (INCI: Behentrimonium methosulfate (and) cetyl alcohol (and) butylene glycol) is a great emulsifier, imparting a dryer, less greasy feel to our lotions. As it is cationic or positively charged, you’ll be making a positively charged lotion. (Emulsifying wax NF and Polawax are non-ionic, meaning they carry no electrical charge, while Ritamulse SCG is slightly...

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How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Ritamulse SCG

Ritamulse SCG (INCI: Glyceryl stearate (and) cetearyl alcohol (and) sodium stearoyl lactylate) is an Ecocert self-emulsifier that can be used at 2% to 10% to emulsify up to 25% oils in an oil in the water emulsion, although I’ve found that almost every sample recipe I’ve seen uses 8% or higher. It works best at...

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How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Emulsifying wax NF

As I mentioned the other day, Polawax has an INCI of emulsifying wax NF, but that doesn’t mean that something with an INCI of emulsifying wax NF is Polawax. There are many different versions of e-wax, so check what you are getting before buying! Check the INCI name to see what’s in it. And make...

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How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Polawax

I like Polawax (INCI: Emulsifying wax NF). It’s a fairly fool proof non-ionic (neutrally charged) emulsifier that works well with even large amounts of oils in things like body butters or creams. (For a technical data sheet on Polawax, please click here.) In my humble opinion, Polawax is the easiest of the emulsifiers for lotion making....

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Weekend Wonderings: What’s in Polawax?

What exactly is in Polawax? This question has come up a few times lately and the answer is that we don’t know what is in Polawax. It’s a trade secret. But if this is the case, why has New Directions Aromatics posted this in their listing for Polawax? “Emulsifying Wax NF consists of four ingredients. These are...

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Weekend Wonderings: What to substitute for lecithin in a nail product?

In this post on the Chemistry of our nails: lotion bars with lecithin, Laura asks: What can I substitute lecithin with? Beeswax, more lanolin, exotic butter (which sounds fantastic for my ‘gardening without gloves’ hands? 😉 When we’re trying to figure out what we can use as a substitute, the first thing I do is refer to...

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Weekend Wonderings: Is there a general rule about increasing/decreasing beeswax in lotion bars?

In this post on lotion bars, Tina asks: I’m trying to figure out if there’s a general rule for tweaking the basic recipe (33/33/33/1 -beeswax/butter/oil/fragrance). You said that, for example, with cocoa butter, you’d use less beeswax. So if I use beeswax at 25%, what’s the rule for altering the butter and oil? Does that now...

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Weekend Wonderings: Learning to make substitutions for ingredients and using decyl glucoside as a surfactant

I have to ask this question as well – if you are a beginner, why are you trying to make products from scratch? I’ve been getting quite a few e-mails and comments from people who are creating their own recipes and wondering why they won’t work. Please please please find a tried and true recipe...

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