These are a few of my favourite new ingredients in 2017 – part one

T I’ve more than 400 new ingredients – not including micas, colourants, glitters, fragrance oils, or essential iols – including so many new surfactants, surfactant thickeners, cold lotion emulsifiers, conditioners, cationic polymers, preservatives, humectants, silicones, esters, oils, butters, extracts & hydrosols, proteins, cosmeceuticals & complexes, emulsifiers, and more, some of which I have yet to inventory! I’ve been able to afford these things and the bins in which to store them thanks to the subscribers over on my Patreon page.

Here are a few new ingredients I enjoyed this year!

New favourite fragrance: It’s a tie at the moment between Blood Orange & Goji Berry or Manchurian Dragon from Windy Point Soap. I’m also in love with lemongrass verbena (fragrance oil) and Charleston Sweet Tea from Voyageur Soap & Candle.

New favourite conditioning ingredient: I am having such a love affair with Varisoft EQ 65 (INCI: Distearoylethyl Dimonium Chloride (and) Cetearyl Alcohol), a green, ECOcert conditioner that makes really soft, light, conditioners that don’t weigh my hair down. It’s a neat, albeit picky, substitute for Incroquat BTMS-50 or Rita BTMS-225 that needs to have the pH altered to work as a positively charged or cationic ingredient.

I think this might be the best cationic or positively charged ingredient I’ve found for fine hair. In the past, I’ve used one of the cationic polymers, like Honeyquat or polyquaternium 7, to create light conditioners, but this is my new go-to for that hair type now.

Related posts:

New favourite butter: That’s a hard one, but I think I’m really enjoying cupuacu butter the most. It’s a bit like mango butter, but not as dry feeling, and a bit like cocoa butter, but less stiff. It can hold a lot of water, which means it can be good for anhydrous products if you wanted to add a titch of glycerin or aloe vera.

I’ll be writing part two shortly, but for now – what were your favourite new ingredients of the year?

  • John Mikrut

    Happy New Year Susan! Looking forward to the new year. One of my resolutions is delving into all the great info you’ve shared this past year. It has been waiting until other projects were finished. Time to start playing in the lab.

  • Wendy Dittmer @ The Rustic Bee

    I have been loving the Aristoflex AVC! Have been making a lovely face serum that has left my skin bright and oh-so-soft! My only wish is that it could handle a heavier oil load…

  • Italo Sacco

    Hi Susan, I would like to know your opinion about Varisoft EQ 100 by Evonik. Maybe better than EQ 65.
    Thanks for your reply.

  • Marcie Lewis

    I’m anxious for a formulary using this new conditioner Verisoft EQ 65 For my very fine hair. I’ve made mostly sprays with all those lovely Cationic polymers and no oils. Looking forward to a new year of learning. Your awesome!

  • Kenna Morgan

    My favorite new ingredient for now is Cationic Guar. I use it at .30% in my cleansers and shampoo and it gives my hair and skin a silky smooth feeling.

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