Water (Aqua), Rose Geranium (Pelargonium capitatum) Floral Water*, Kaolin, Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis) Leaf Juice*, Decyl Glucoside, Coconut (Cocos nucifera) Oil*, Shea Butter (Butyrospermum parkii) Fruit Oil, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Glycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) Seed Oil*, Yucca Schidigera Root Extract, Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) Flower Extract, Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) Flower Extract, Olive (Olea europaea) Oil*, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Xanthan Gum, Gota Kola (Centella asiatica) Extract, Hops (Humulus lupulus) Extract, Horse Chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) Extract, Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Flower Oil*, Blue Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) Flower Oil*, Vitamin E (Tocopherol), Flower Essences. (In this list the * means it’s organic.)
Yucca Schidigera Root Extract: This is an extract from the yucca plant that works as a foaming and sudsing, skin conditioning, and anti-oxidant ingredient. It contains saponins, which is why it foams.
I found it in large quantities at Making Cosmetics with a suggested usage rate of 5% to 10%. I haven’t found it anywhere else.
What are saponins? Saponins are steroid or triterpenoid glycosides that have amphiphilic or amphipathic features. They are grouped together by having “soap like foaming qualities they produce in aqueous solutions” – in other words, when you put them in water and shake them up, they foam. What the heck does this mean? Read more at this post on the blog!
Honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) Flower Extract: This is listed as a skin conditioning ingredient at Health Canada’s Natural Health Products Database, but it’s usually used as a preservative that contains natural parabens.
Honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) Flower Extract: This one I use as a powdered extract at up to 0.5% in my creations as it has all kinds of wonderful properties – anti-oxidant, anti-fungal, anti-viral, anti-oxidant, anti-irritant, and anti-bacterial. It can help exfoliate your skin, and may help with eczema and psoriasis. How does it do all these wonderful things? Why with vitamins, polyphenols, catechins, tannins, and glycosides!Considered to have some of the highest levels of polyphenols in all the extracts, honeysuckle is considered an excellent anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory, up there with green tea extract, aloe vera, and chamomile. It contains a lot of Vitamin C, always a welcome addition to any creation as it is a good anti-oxidant and chelating ingredient, as well as a possible stimulator of the synthesis of collagen in our skin.
I found these two extracts at Making Cosmetics as a broad spectrum preservative with a suggested usage rate of 0.5% to 2% in pH 5 to 8. I also found these two at Formulator Sample Shop as an anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory extract with a suggested usage of 1% to 10% with a high pH of 9 to 12. It has 60% Japonica, 25% the other, and 15% water. (Check out the MSDS for more information!)
Olive (Olea europaea) Oil: Olive oil contains a ton of oleic acid, which is great for softening and moisturizing skin. It also contains a lot of phytosterols, which are great for reducing inflammation.
Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract: Calendula extract also offers anti-inflammatory properties and soothes inflamed and chapped skin. I’ve been using a liquid extract at 0.1% to 2%, but you can find it as an infused oil.
Xanthan gum: An anionic thickener that can be used to thicken surfactants that don’t thicken with Crothix or salt well, like decyl glucoside. It needs a pH below 7, so make sure you test and alter the pH.
Gota Kola (Centella asiatica) Extract*: This is a great, water soluble extract that behaves as an anti-inflammatory, while helping increase collagen production and help with broken skin. It contains triterpenoids, aka saponins, and it might be good for cellulite and photo-aged skin. (I went into more detail about this on page 13 May 2017 botanical extracts e-zine.) I use the extract from Lotioncrafter at 1% to 5% in the cool down phase. (It’s water soluble.)
Hops (Humulus lupulus) Extract: Can offer anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
I have written about this ingredient so many times, but I can’t find a single good write up I’ve done about it as Patreon has a terrible search ability!
Horse Chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum) Extract: Aescin: This is an interesting powder derived from horse chestnut extract that works as an anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory that can reduce redness, something those of us with rosacea battle with every day! (It’s also a good anti-oxidant.) It can be used at 0.2% to 2% in the cool down phase of the product, but we have to dissolve it in glycerin, propylene glycol, or propanediol 1,3 before adding it. I’ve used the powder from Lotioncrafter* and the liquid from Formulator Sample Shop* (1% to 10%). It’s great in under eye and foot care products, too.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) Flower Oil*: This essential oil comes from lavender and smells pretty.
Blue Chamomile (Matricaria recutita) Flower Oil*: This essential oil comes from chamomile and smells a bit musty to me.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol): This could be here to soften skin or retard the rancidity of the oils.
Flower Essences: I have no idea what this means, but it is probably a fragrance?
What do we have here? We have a lovely cleanser with one surfactant, the non-ionic decyl glucoside, and a few things that contain saponins, like the yucca and gotu kola extracts. The clay is here to absorb oils and thicken the product. There are a ton of emollients in here in the form of shea butter, coconut oil, sunflower oil, and olive oil. We could consider the sodium stearoyl lactylate and sodium lauroyl lactylate as emollients and thickeners. Xanthan gum thickens it as well.
We have one humectant in the form of glycerin, and all kinds of lovely extracts as well. The rose geranium water would offer a lovely fragrance, as would the lavender and blue chamomile essential oils. We have a broad preservative system in the form of the two honeysuckle extracts, and an anti-oxidant in the form of Vitamin E.
Weirdly, though, there’s no pH adjuster to bring that decyl glucoside down to a more skin friendly level at 4.5 to 5.5, something that is incredibly essential as we don’t want it to irritate our skin.
Join me tomorrow as we look at the next part of duplicating a product – figuring out how much of each thing to use.