How do we make substitutions with our emulsifiers? Polawax

I like Polawax (INCI: Emulsifying wax NF). It’s a fairly fool proof non-ionic (neutrally charged) emulsifier that works well with even large amounts of oils in things like body butters or creams. (For a technical data sheet on Polawax, please click here.) In my humble opinion, Polawax is the easiest of the emulsifiers for lotion making....

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Weekend Wonderings: What’s in Polawax?

What exactly is in Polawax? This question has come up a few times lately and the answer is that we don’t know what is in Polawax. It’s a trade secret. But if this is the case, why has New Directions Aromatics posted this in their listing for Polawax? “Emulsifying Wax NF consists of four ingredients. These are...

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Weekend Wonderings: What to substitute for lecithin in a nail product?

In this post on the Chemistry of our nails: lotion bars with lecithin, Laura asks: What can I substitute lecithin with? Beeswax, more lanolin, exotic butter (which sounds fantastic for my ‘gardening without gloves’ hands? 😉 When we’re trying to figure out what we can use as a substitute, the first thing I do is refer to...

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Weekend Wonderings: Is there a general rule about increasing/decreasing beeswax in lotion bars?

In this post on lotion bars, Tina asks: I’m trying to figure out if there’s a general rule for tweaking the basic recipe (33/33/33/1 -beeswax/butter/oil/fragrance). You said that, for example, with cocoa butter, you’d use less beeswax. So if I use beeswax at 25%, what’s the rule for altering the butter and oil? Does that now...

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Weekend Wonderings: Learning to make substitutions for ingredients and using decyl glucoside as a surfactant

I have to ask this question as well – if you are a beginner, why are you trying to make products from scratch? I’ve been getting quite a few e-mails and comments from people who are creating their own recipes and wondering why they won’t work. Please please please find a tried and true recipe...

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