Experiments in the workshop: Moisture Renewal Body Wash using Kelcogel® CG-LA – working with this formula

First, we met my new favourite gum, gellan gum, then we took a look at the Moisture Renew Body Wash formula from the manufacturer along with some ideas on which preservatives will work for it. Today, let’s make this formula and take a look at how to mix it along with testing and adjusting the…...

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Experiments in the workshop: Moisture Renewal Body Wash using Kelcogel® CG-LA

The other day, we met my new favourite gum, Kelcogel® GG-LA, low acyl gellan gum, so let’s get formulating with it today! The first formula I tried was a variation on their Moisture Renewal Body Wash, which uses a combination of gellan gum and xanthan gum as a thickener and suspender. As a quick aside,…...

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Experiments in the workshop: Blooming Jelly Cleanser!

What’s happening in the workshop this week? We’re cooking up a little something called a Blooming Jelly Cleanser, a foamy, lathery, bubbly, transparent cleanser we can pour into any adorable moulds. (We met these a few months ago, but I’ve only had a chance to try it this week.) This isn’t the wobbly, jiggly jelly…...

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#alltheingredients: Sodium cocoyl glutamate (surfactant)

Sodium cocoyl glutamate is a negatively charged or anionic foamy, bubbly, lathery surfactant derived from amino acids. It’s considered incredibly mild and doesn’t defat the skin like some other, less mild surfactants might. You might find it described as having a “comfortable and soft feeling to skin during and after use”, and it’s noted constantly…...

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#alltheingredients: Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine (surfactant)

Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine is an amphoteric surfactant related to cocamidopropyl betaine, known as a sulfobetaine. It’s derived from coconut oil, and is biodegradable. It’s water soluble through a large pH range, reduces irritation of other surfactants, and may thicken bubbly and lathery things, like bubble baths or body washes. Because it’s cationic – thanks to a…...

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#alltheingredients: Sodium cocoyl glycinate (surfactant)

As you probably know, I’m a huge surfactant junkie – they’re like Pokemon, I have to catch them all! – so I thought I’d introduce you to another surfactant I adore, sodium cocoyl glycinate. I used this one a lot in the e-zine, Surfactants: Making foaming facial cleansers, as it’s lovely and mild for all…...

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Acids, bases & pH – oh my! Creating a Burst of citrus clarifying shampoo for oily hair

Let’s take a look at using our pH meters and strips to test, then potentially adjust, the pH of a formula for a citrus-y clarifying shampoo perfect for hot summer days! For some reason, I’m feeling really oily this summer, so I thought I should create a clarifying shampoo full of surfactants, hydrosols, and essential…...

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Q&A: Can I use sodium lauroyl sarcosinate in place of SCI in a creamy cleanser?

In the July Q&A, Tessa asked, So here’s where I need help: How to substitute surfactants. There’s a formula that calls for 5% SCI (powder) and I’d like to use Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate instead. But how can I know what % of this ingredient to use so I can get the same cleansing effect as…...

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#alltheingredients: Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (surfactant)

We first met this surfactant in the e-zine, Shiny Things, volume one, then again in Surfactants, part one: A reference guide e-zine. I also wrote about it in part one of my favourite ingredients for 2017. It’s one that I use a lot these days, so let’s get to know it!  As a note, I’ve…...

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Q&A: Why is sorbitan olivate in my facial cleanser? And stuff about structured liquids!

In the June Q&A, Heather asked, Can you talk about “coconut alcohol”? I know that it is used an emulsifier but cannot find any place to source the ingredient. It is being used in Oseas Ocean Cleansing Mud. When reading the ingredients list it piqued my curiosity and want to know more about it. They are…...

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