Q&A: Are there oils we shouldn’t freeze? Oils and titer points, surfactants and cloud points

Quite a few times, Marta has asked this question, and I’ve been remiss in answering it. She posed it again in the Discussion: How do you decide what to make? What about mulitifunctional products? How do you store and inventory your stuff? and shared what she heard from Lotioncrafter. I emailed Lotioncrafter to ask why the...

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Emollients: Chia seed oil

Chia seed oil is a light to medium, non-greasy oil derived from the seeds of the salvia hispanica flower, a member of the mint family. Is it wrong that all I can think about it is “Ch-ch-ch-chia!” when I’m formulating with this oil? It contains 5% to 8% palmitic acid  1% to 4% stearic acid,...

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Oils: Cherry kernel oil

I just found this in Voyageur and thought I’d try it out in my products as sweet cherry just sounds so lovely, doesn’t it? So what’s the deal? How does it feel on our skin? What does it bring to a product? Cherry kernel oil contains a balance of fatty acids with about 46.0% oleic...

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Back to basics: Lotion bars – tweaking the waxes!

Yesterday we took a look at the basic recipe for lotion bars. You can change the skin feel, melting point, and hardness of a bar by playing with the wax type and amount without changing the type of butters or oils. Although the basic recipe is 1/3 beeswax, 1/3 butter, and 1/3 oil, playing with...

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Back to basics: Lotion bars – the basic recipe!

Consider the lotion bar. Easy to make, easy to tweak, and easy to carry around in your purse or pocket. We can make them as simple or as complicated as we wish. We can wrap them in foil or cellophane, package them in adorable tins, or put them in lip balm or deodorant containers. I...

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Back to basics: Whipped butters (updated)

Whipped butters are so impressive but so darned easy to make! They might seem all complicated with their whippiness, but they’re simple to make if you have a mixer with a whisk attachment. (I bought my Black & Decker 250 watt mixer for $20 from Canadian Tire with two whisk attachments! I’m sure you could...

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Formulating with extracts and oils – facial moisturizer for dry skin

Let’s play with our extracts and oils to come up with a really decadent light facial moisturizer for someone with dry, aging, weather damaged skin. (For the post on basic facial moisturizers, click here…) Let’s start with our oils and butters. I don’t like to use butters in a facial moisturizer because it can bother...

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Polyphenols: Coumarins

Coumarins – found as coumaric acid – are very powerful anti-oxidants that smell like either vanilla or freshly mown hay (it’s what smells nice after clover is cut). Because of this lovely smell, it’s often used in perfumes and fragrance oils. Coumarins are good anti-inflammatories, and they reduce both oedema and redness on our skin....

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E-mail question: Hydrogenated vegetable oil

More Cowbell poses this question…What timing! I was just looking at this on another site and wondering what the “hydrogenated vegetable oil” is. Do you know? Are we talking Crisco??? 🙂 It seems to also have sweet almond oil, so what hydrogenated oil is so firm that it can incorporate that and still qualify as...

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Polyphenols: Cinnamic acid (updated)

Cinnamic acid is a precursor of a group of polyphenols called hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives, such as p-coumaric acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, and sinapic acid. It is a powerful anti-oxidant, and offers UV protection as well as a reduction in inflammation, redness, and water retention. It is found in great quantities in shea butter and...

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