Heat-proofing our body butters by making emulsified body butters!

On Tuesday, we took a look at adding a butter with a higher melting point to our anhydrous whipped body butters, then we looked at adding fatty acids, alcohols, or esters that might increase the melting point. We increased the melting point by thickening our oils with ingredients like Lipidthix or Cera bellina, and we…...

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Creating a light hydrating summer body lotion with Olivem 1000 – part three, thickening with fatty alcohols, acids, and esters

Earlier this week, we met a new-to-me oil, tamanu oil! On Friday, we created a summery body milk with this oil with a ton of humectants to give our product a quick break kind of feeling, then we made the lotion using three variations on the formula. Today, let’s take a look at how we…...

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Creating a light hydrating summer body milk with Olivem 1000 – part two

Earlier this week, we met a new-to-me oil, tamanu oil! Yesterday, we created a summery body milk with this oil with a ton of humectants to give our product a quick break kind of feeling. Today, let’s make that lotion before considering a few ways we could alter it with thickeners, oils, and rheology modifiers…....

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Creating a light hydrating summer body milk with Olivem 1000 – part one

On Thursday, we met a new-to-me oil, tamanu oil! Let’s take a look at how we might use this in a lotion! As a note, I find the smell too strong to use in huge amounts in an anhydrous product, like a lotion bar or whipped butter, but you could certainly use it in those…...

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Q&A: Where to start duplicating Lush’s American Pie body conditioner lotion? Part three: Prototype formula

So far we’ve reviewed the ingredients list, took a quick aside to talk about self-preserving lotions and hurdle technology; and thought about how much of each ingredient to use. Today, let’s make a prototype formula for this American Pie Body conditioner lotion!   We’re following the basic lotion making instructions for this formula. 1. Weigh…...

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In Cosmetics: Fluffy textures

Over the last year, I’ve spent a lot of time thinking and writing about the sensory characteristics of our ingredients and products, so In Cosmetics was a huge, moveable feast of textures and sensations. This one was interesting! My awesome convention buddy, Nanette Vaughn of NV&O, noted that if she had made something that looked…...

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Q&A: Into which phase would I put n-acetyl glucosamine? Is there a limit to the size of the cool down phase?

In the March Q&A, Olja asked, My question is about NAG (N-acetyl glucosamine). To which phase do you put it. If you put it to the cool down phase, do you dissolve it prior? Can you dissolve it in a glicerite extract (which also contains some water) and than put it in the lotion? Moreover, if using…...

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Experiments in the workshop: It’s too freakin’ dry around here – a lotion with isododecane

On February 27th, we met isododecane, a non-polar, lightweight emollient we can use for all kinds of products as an emollient, moisturizer, and dilutor as well as a great inclusion in colour cosmetics. It works really well with dimethicone, which is why I’ve been using it in this facial moisturizer using the cold emulsifier, RM-2051…...

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Formulating Fun! Modifying the Saje Psoria Ease Healing Treatment Lotion with a fatty alcohol

Way back in January, I shared with you this potential duplication for Saje Psoria Ease Healing Treatment Lotion. There were four parts to this series – analyzing the ingredient list, part one and part two, a prototype formula, then a modified formula – but I had to add a part five! I really liked that formula, which…...

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Formulating Fundamentals Friday: How thickeners affect the properties of a lotion – stearic acid & lanolin alcohol (part two)

Welcome back to Formulating Fundamentals Friday! I’ve added a new section of the blog I’ve entitled Formulating Fundamentals where you’ll find these posts along with the other ones I’ve written about defining cosmetic chemistry terms. I also encourage you to have the glossary open as we work through this series as a reference. In part…...

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