Ingredient: Moisture Plex Advanced (humectant)

I can’t believe I haven’t shared my thoughts about this ingredient from Formulator Sample Shop! I’ve used it a lot for years, especially in products where I didn’t want the stickiness of glycerin.  Moisture Plex Advanced from Formulator Sample Shop (INCI Glycerin & Water & Sodium PCA & Urea & Trehalose & Polyquaternium-51 & Sodium Hyaluronate). I’m...

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Subscribers’ Q&A and Discussion: What’s the effective level of ingredients? And thought about using tiny amounts

Amber is on fire this week! In Potential duplication of L’Occitane Immortelle Divine Cream (part four), she shares: I have to agree with the rant about products that contain tiny bits of this and that. I always, always wonder what the effective level is of each ingredient? I know some things are very effective at very low...

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Surfactants: Sodium coco sulfate (SCS)

Earlier today, I shared with you a duplication of Lush’s Jumping Juniper shampoo bar in which I used sodium coco sulfate. What is this surfactant and why would we use it in a shampoo bar? Sodium coco sulfate (SCS) is closely related to one of the most disliked surfactants, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), so what...

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Liquorice root extract

Liquorice root (or licorice root, if you’re American – INCI: Glycrrhiza glabra) is supposed to work as an anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-microbial, anti-irritant, demulcent, skin whitening, and wound healing ingredient when applied topically. Let’s take a look at what gives liquorice its awesome qualities. Liquorice root contains amino acids, flavonoids, phytosterols like ß-sitosterol and stigmasterol, coumarins,...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: What the heck is this and what can I do with it? Inulin

In the May Q&A, firegirl asked: I bought some inulin as I saw it sold on a supplier site. It says it replace quats in a more environmental way. Has anyone tried this? What is inulin? It’s a polysaccharide that can behave as an emulsifier, stabilizer, and surfactant. (This post) They “have a sweet taste and are present in...

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New ingredients in my workshop: Cucumber hydrosol

I love cucumbers – they’re one of the only vegetables I will eat as I’m super picky – and I love the smell of them in all kinds of products, so let’s take a look at a water soluble way to use cucumbers in our products in the form of a cucumber hydrosol. The version...

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Weekday Wonderings: Is MCT the same as PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides? Can I add things to aloe vera gel? Using SCI in liquid products?

I haven’t been answering many comments you’ve been leaving on this new blog because I feel that when I enter a conversation, it stops, and that’s no fun. But I wanted to return to the idea of doing the Weekend Wonderings based on your questions and comments, as well as highlight some of the cool...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Euxyl PE 9010

We first met this preservative in this post – Why did this lotion fail? part one – and I mentioned it again in the rose water & chamomile facial cleanser, so let’s take a look at what Euxyl PE 9010 is all about! This preservative – INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin – can be used at 0.5%...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides

PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides is a non-sticky, non-ionic solubilizer or polyethylene glycol ester derived from coconuts we can use to solubilize small amounts of oils into water soluble products, like fragrance sprays, toners, and micellar waters. We can use it at 0.5% to 5% in the heated or cool down phase of our products. In micellar waters...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Esters: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE)

Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE) is a PPG ester we can use in just about every product we make, which is quite the claim! PPG esters are surfactants with a hydrophilic or water loving head and a lipophilic or fat loving tail, so they can bring together water and oil as a surfactant. They’re...

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