Weekday Wonderings: Is MCT the same as PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides? Can I add things to aloe vera gel? Using SCI in liquid products?

I haven’t been answering many comments you’ve been leaving on this new blog because I feel that when I enter a conversation, it stops, and that’s no fun. But I wanted to return to the idea of doing the Weekend Wonderings based on your questions and comments, as well as highlight some of the cool … Read more

(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Euxyl PE 9010

We first met this preservative in this post – Why did this lotion fail? part one – and I mentioned it again in the rose water & chamomile facial cleanser, so let’s take a look at what Euxyl PE 9010 is all about! This preservative – INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin – can be used at 0.5%...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides

PEG-6 caprylic/capric triglycerides is a non-sticky, non-ionic solubilizer or polyethylene glycol ester derived from coconuts we can use to solubilize small amounts of oils into water soluble products, like fragrance sprays, toners, and micellar waters. We can use it at 0.5% to 5% in the heated or cool down phase of our products. In micellar waters...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Esters: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE)

Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE) is a PPG ester we can use in just about every product we make, which is quite the claim! PPG esters are surfactants with a hydrophilic or water loving head and a lipophilic or fat loving tail, so they can bring together water and oil as a surfactant. They’re...

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Member exclusive Q&A: How do you decide which form of an ingredient is best?

In the February Q&A, Nadia asked: My questions today have to do with choosing which form of an ingredient to use in a particular formula. For example with Calendula I could use an infusion, an essential oil, or an extract, either oil or water soluble. In this case I am talking about making a lotion, so I...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Neossance Hemisqualane

Neossance hemisqualane (INCI: 13-15 alkane) is like squalane, although this one is derived from sugar, not olives, or amaranth. It can reduce frizzies, so the cuticle lays flatter, so you get more shine. I’ve used this in a leave in conditioner and it works well for me on less humid days for my frizzy prone...

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Member exclusive Q&A: Working with potential replacements for panthenol in hair care products – water soluble bamboo

In this post, Patreon Q&A: What’s a good vegan replacement for panthenol?, Doris asked for some ideas for substitutions for panthenol as she was worried it wasn’t vegan. The version I’ve been using are vegan, but it’s fun to think of other ingredients we might use in our products, so let’s take a look at...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Coco caprylate

We met this ingredient a few years ago, but I didn’t go into much detail, which is kind of weird as I often go into too much detail. Let’s take another look at coco caprylate.. Coco caprylate is an ester of “coconut alcohol, caprylic, and capric acid”, in other words, a fatty alcohol derived from coconuts...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Propanediol 1,3 (humectant)

Propanediol 1,3 is an interesting humectant, meaning it draws water from the atmosphere to your skin or hair to offer hydration. It has fast become my favourite humectant as it has such a dry, powdery skin feel with no tackiness that can be used in just about any product that contains water. It’s derived from...

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