Surfactants: Cleansing descriptions and increasing mildness – analyzing surfactants

Thanks for sticking around to the end of this series. I know for some this might seem like a very dry subject and some of you are yelling at the screen for me to shut up about chemistry stuff and get to the formulas, but if you have a curious mind and want to learn...

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Considering the effect of different combinations of oils & butters in a basic lotion

Let’s take some time today to see how this all comes together in choosing butters and oils for our lotions! Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melt point...

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Why is the cosmetic formulator concerned with solubility, viscosity, surface tension, contact angles, wetting, refractive index, specific gravity, spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melting point?

I thought we’d take some time to process what we’ve learned over the last few days about these very interesting concepts by considering some emollient combinations. Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play...

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Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melt point

Let’s spend a little more time getting to know some formulating terms and concepts! Check out these posts from Saturday and Sunday… Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity As we work through these definitions, think about how these ingredients...

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Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity

Yesterday, we took a look at some concepts we’ll need when discussing silicones, esters, and thickeners for surfactants. Today, let’s take a look at a few more. Contact angle: “The contact angle is defined as the angle the water makes with the surface. In this illustration, a low contact angle (θ<90 ̊) means the surface...

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Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces

I’ve been trying to write some posts on silicones, surfactant thickeners, and esters for quite a while now, and I keep running into the issue that I need to define a bunch of terms before I can start. As I have a question from someone from the May Q&A that hasn’t been answered yet, I...

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Subscribers’ Q&A and Discussion: What’s the effective level of ingredients? And thought about using tiny amounts

Amber is on fire this week! In Potential duplication of L’Occitane Immortelle Divine Cream (part four), she shares: I have to agree with the rant about products that contain tiny bits of this and that. I always, always wonder what the effective level is of each ingredient? I know some things are very effective at very low...

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Weekend Wonderings: Adding and removing from the water amount

When we’re adding or removing water soluble ingredients from a recipe, we tend to remove or add to the amount of water in the product. Let’s say we have a recipe that looks like this…. BASIC LOTION RECIPEHEATED WATER PHASE74% water HEATED OIL PHASE20% oil5% emulsifier COOL DOWN PHASE1% preservative …and we want to add...

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Question: How do I come up with recipes?

I originally thought I’d missed this very interesting question from Always.Looking.4.1.More in this post, but it turns out that I’ve already written about it. But it’s such a neat idea, I thought I’d use it as a starting point to get you interested in coming up with your own basic recipes! I wonder how you...

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Formulating for dry skin: Making an emulsified scrub

If I were to make a sugar scrub for dry skin, which ingredients would I want to include? Occlusives, emollients, and humectants! But an emulsifier scrub is an anhydrous product, so it’s hard to include things like glycerin or sodium lactate as they will come out of the product and make a mess. So what can...

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