Acids, bases, and pH – oh my! Creating a light, non-greasy summer weight lotion with Varisoft EQ 65 (part one, the water phase)

I hate summer so very much, but I’m handling it far better this year because we just had central air conditioning installed, and it can get so chilly, I need to put on a light cardigan. (I’m the type who wears shorts all year ’round, so this is a big big deal!) But I know…...

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Creating a light, lime-y emulsified scrub for summer! The formula and visual tutorial

Yesterday, we took a look at my new favourite summery lime-scented emulsified scrub. Let’s look at the formula and how to make this! Combine the heated phase into a glass container and place in the double boiler. I heated it until it all melted – around 70˚C – and left it for another 5 minutes to…...

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In Cosmetics Global: Urban Renewal Cleansing Balm by Ashland

I’m in love with this gorgeous Urban Renewal Cleansing Balm by Ashland we tried at In Cosmetics Global in Paris last week. It’s full of esters to offer a silky, non- greasy skin feel that melts away on contact with your skin. The key is to choose ingredients that remain solid-ish at room temperature –…...

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Experiments in the workshop: It’s too freakin’ dry around here – a lotion with isododecane

On February 27th, we met isododecane, a non-polar, lightweight emollient we can use for all kinds of products as an emollient, moisturizer, and dilutor as well as a great inclusion in colour cosmetics. It works really well with dimethicone, which is why I’ve been using it in this facial moisturizer using the cold emulsifier, RM-2051…...

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Formulating Fun! Modifying the Saje Psoria Ease Healing Treatment Lotion with a fatty alcohol

Way back in January, I shared with you this potential duplication for Saje Psoria Ease Healing Treatment Lotion. There were four parts to this series – analyzing the ingredient list, part one and part two, a prototype formula, then a modified formula – but I had to add a part five! I really liked that formula, which…...

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Formulating Fundamentals Friday: How thickeners affect the properties of a lotion – stearic acid & lanolin alcohol (part two)

Welcome back to Formulating Fundamentals Friday! I’ve added a new section of the blog I’ve entitled Formulating Fundamentals where you’ll find these posts along with the other ones I’ve written about defining cosmetic chemistry terms. I also encourage you to have the glossary open as we work through this series as a reference. In part…...

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Formulating fun! Quick key lime meringue lotion with Aristoflex AVC

Yesterday, we met lime butter (INCI: Citrus Latifolia Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Tocopherol), which I’m using in this formula because I like it as an emollient, plus it smells amazing! Today, let’s create a light, cold process lotion using Aristoflex AVC and Penstia powder. If you’ve ever wondered what the proceeds of the five…...

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Formulating Fundamentals Friday: How emulsifiers affect the properties of a lotion – part two

In part one, we looked at substituting one oil or butter for another oil or butter in a lotion. In part two, we altered the viscosity by altering the oil phase. In part three, we took a look at how your choice of emulsifier alters the properties of a lotion, and made lotions with emulsifying…...

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Formulating Fundamentals Friday: How emulsifiers affect the properties of a lotion

Welcome to part three of this new series, Formulating Fundamentals! In part one, we looked at substituting one oil or butter for another oil or butter in a lotion. In part two, we altered the viscosity by altering the oil phase. Today, let’s take a look at how your emulsifier alters the properties of a…...

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Formulating Fundamentals Friday: Altering the viscosity by altering the oil phase

Welcome to this new series I’m calling Formulating Fundamentals Friday where I’ll be sharing all kinds of things I hope you’ll find useful in learning how to formulate your own products. If this is all completely new to you, check out the Beginners! Start here! section of the blog.  Last week, I introduced you to…...

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