Emollients you will love: Myristyl myristate, simple ester

In my newest formula for an emulsified sugar scrub, I used myristyl myristate to thicken it and offer a more glidy and less greasy skin feel. Let’s take a look at this ingredient! Myristyl myristate is a simple ester, a waxy one with a melting point of 38-40˚C. It’s slightly polar and non-ionic ester. It…...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Esters: Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE)

Di-PPG-2 myeth-10 adipate (or Cromollient SCE) is a PPG ester we can use in just about every product we make, which is quite the claim! PPG esters are surfactants with a hydrophilic or water loving head and a lipophilic or fat loving tail, so they can bring together water and oil as a surfactant. They’re…...

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(Member exclusive) Ingredient: Coco caprylate

We met this ingredient a few years ago, but I didn’t go into much detail, which is kind of weird as I often go into too much detail. Let’s take another look at coco caprylate.. Coco caprylate is an ester of “coconut alcohol, caprylic, and capric acid”, in other words, a fatty alcohol derived from coconuts…...

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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble shea butter

As I mentioned in yesterday’s post, I like water soluble olive oil! It gives me a chance to add some moisturizing to products that normally wouldn’t contain oils, like body washes or toners. Today’s favourite ingredient is similar to yesterday’s – water soluble shea butter (INCI: PEG-50 shea butter). Like the water soluble olive oil…...

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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble olive oil

I love love love water soluble oils! Water soluble oils are oils that have been esterified to become more water soluble. Some of them can be used as emulsifiers – like Cromollient SCE – but all of them can be used in water only creations, like body washes or shampoos. One of my favourites is water…...

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Weekend Wonderings: It’s all about the polysorbates, baby!

There were a few questions about polysorbate 20 this week, so let’s take a look at those comments! WILL HEATING HELP AN EMULSION WITH POLYSORBATE 20?In this post, Polysorbate 20 vs. polysorbate 80, Sam F asks, Do you think heating will aide an o/w emulsion when adding 0.3% eo’s & 1.2% polysorbate 20 to water? The…...

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Question: What’s the deal with coco-caprylate caprate?

In this post, Aesthete asks: Based on your experience with Coco-Caprylate Caprate, how is it compared to C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate and dimethicone? Occlusive? Spreading? After-feel? Is it comedogenic? Great question, Aesthete! I decided to do a little test by comparing coco-caprylate caprate against fractionated coconut oil (INCI caprylic/capric triglycerides), C12-15 alkyl benzoate, and cetearyl…...

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Why did I buy that again? Cera bellina – making oily gels

I’ve been dying to make an oily gel since I heard I could do it with Sucragel AOF – which was an epic fail – so I was excited to see that I could use cera bellina in that capacity. I read that 10% should make a thicker oily gel, so I thought I’d start…...

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An aside: Let’s talk about drier feeling oils…

A few people have asked me about astringent oils lately, and the main question is “are they drying?” Allow me to recap a post from last year with a bit more detail… An astringent is actually defined as “chemical that tends to shrink or constrict body tissues, usually locally after topical medicinal application.” By definition…...

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Question: How to use polysorbates in our products?

Shana writes to me: I was reading one of your old blogs about water soluble oils and you stated this: “There are two ways to make water soluble oils – you can mix an oil with an emulsifier (usually polysorbate 80) to make an oil water soluble” You did not explain how to do this exactly. Could you…...

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