Emollients you will love: Tamanu oil

I’ve been playing with tamanu oil (INCI: Calophyllum Tacamahaca Seed Oil) for a while now, so let’s take a look at this interesting oil! Tamanu oil is a thick, rich oil with a distinctive smell and colour. It is reported to be an anti-microbial with anti-oxidant properties, and works well as a skin or hair conditioner…....

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Experiments with rheology modifiers: Gelmaker CC aka Cosmedia Gel CC

Another beaker broken during the grand oil thickening experiments! I don’t know what it is about high shear + clay based thickeners, but if this keeps up, I’ll have to order the 100 and 150 ml by the caseload! Oh well, it’s all in the name of figuring out how we can use these ingredients…...

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Question from Patreon: Will my oils be diminished by heating and holding?

In the November Q&A on Patreon, Ingrid asked: I understand the heat and hold process when making lotions and creams. Can you please tell me if I do this with oils such as pomegranate seed oil, red raspberry seed oil and evening primrose oil, will any of their properties be diminished, or are they ‘tough’…...

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Happy National Coffee Day! Celebrate with coffee butter!

I admit it: I don’t like coffee. My parents were very British, and we were a family of tea drinkers, so I didn’t get much exposure to coffee until my first day of university when I was surrounded by at least 300 people all sipping their morning brew, the smell of which was completely overwhelming…....

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Emollients: Plum kernel oil

I admit it, I’m in love with plum kernel oil (INCI: Prunus domestica seed extract). It’s light, non-greasy, and smells absolutely of almonds, although I think it’s more like marzipan, which I adore! On top of all of that, it has a richness I generally only find with thicker oils. (It reminds me of pomegranate…...

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Emollients: Rosehip seed oil

Rosehip seed oil (INCI: Rosa rubiginosa (rosehip) seed oil) is a light, non-greasy feeling oil that not only moisturizes our skin but promotes a more even skin tone and may help with reducing the appearance of age spots or scars thanks to the beta-carotene, which is a pre-cursor to Vitamin A. It may also speed…...

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Weekday Wonderings: How can we heat proof an anhydrous butter?

In this post, Adapting your products for summer, Taryn asked: I make body products and this will be my first summer. What can I do to better safeguard my products from turning into liquid pools while at markets and in the mail? I am just starting out and I am worrying that I may have to take…...

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Weekend Wonderings: Substituting one oil for another

I’ve had a few questions this week about substituting one oil for another. In general, you can substitute any oil for another oil in most recipes. You will change the skin feel, viscosity, colour, and other features, but you won’t change the chemistry of the product. (Meaning that your lotion will still emulsify well…)  For…...

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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble shea butter

As I mentioned in yesterday’s post, I like water soluble olive oil! It gives me a chance to add some moisturizing to products that normally wouldn’t contain oils, like body washes or toners. Today’s favourite ingredient is similar to yesterday’s – water soluble shea butter (INCI: PEG-50 shea butter). Like the water soluble olive oil…...

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These are a few of my favourite things: Water soluble olive oil

I love love love water soluble oils! Water soluble oils are oils that have been esterified to become more water soluble. Some of them can be used as emulsifiers – like Cromollient SCE – but all of them can be used in water only creations, like body washes or shampoos. One of my favourites is water…...

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