Creating a decadent dry brushing oil with squalane, another hydrocarbon

Yesterday, we created decadent dry brushing oil with isododecane that had a light, non-greasy feeling with great slip, glide, and spreadability. Today, let’s take a look at making this with another hydrocarbon, squalane. A reader named Stephany asked me this question on Instagram, where you can find me as @swiftcraftymonkey: I was reading your posts on squalane,…...

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Creating a decadent dry brushing oil with isododecane with an aside about grape seed oil

I’ve been playing a lot with isododecane, that very light, non-greasy, non-polar hydrocarbon we met the other day, and wanted to share another formula we’re loving around the SwiftCraftyMonkey house during these drier winter months! I can’t believe how itchy I’ve been feeling since the humidity dropped back in December. Yeah, I know, it’s like…...

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#alltheingredients Isododecane

Isododecane is a hydrocarbon alkane with no double bonds. It’s a non-polar, oil soluble molecule that only contains carbon and hydrogen atoms. We can use it as an oily ingredient anywhere we might use natural oils or butters (vegetable, seed, and animal oils), as well as with esters and silicones. It’s considered an isoparaffin. More…...

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Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils? Part two, polar oils

We first met this idea when we encountered that interesting thickening clay on Sunday, February 24th, then we took a look at hydrocarbons on Monday, February 25th. Today, let’s take a look at polar oils! So what’s the deal with polar oils? “Polar oils contain heteroatoms that differ in electron­egativity. This results in a dipole moment…....

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Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils? Part one, hydrocarbons

This came up yesterday in our post about that interesting thickening clay, so let’s recap, then take a look at hydrocarbons and polar oils! You know how oil and water don’t mix? That’s because water is polar, meaning it has a negative charge at one end and a positive charge on the other, and oils…...

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#alltheingredients: Lanolin alcohol

I bought this ingredient last year from Making Cosmetics, so I thought we should take a look at it before formulating with it in this week’s Formulating Fundamentals Friday on fatty alcohols and acids. This is a fatty alcohol, like cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, derived from lanolin. It’s used in the same way, as…...

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Formulating with hydrogenated butters: Lime butter

As I mentioned back in September, I bought a lot of lime butter by accident, so I’ve been formulating with it quite a bit lately. Let’s take a look at this ingredient and other hydrogenated oils/butters before we formulate with it. Lime butter – INCI: Citrus Latifolia Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Tocopherol, according…...

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Emollients you will love: Sacha Inchi (Plukentia Volubilis) Seed Oil 

In the September Q&A, Charlette asked: This formulating obsession makes me less sad to see the coming end of gardening (which brings me much happiness!). I used to dread the inevitable next few months–but now don’t mind so much! My question is about a new ingredient offered by Lotioncrafters which sounds intriguing. The oil is called…...

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What should I make with all this lime butter?

So, I’m a bit of an idiot. I was ordering a few things from New Directions Aromatics, and didn’t want to incur their “small order” fee ($100 is not small!) so I threw some lime butter into my basket. And when it came, it turns out I bought a kilogram of it! Thank goodness it…...

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Considering the effect of different combinations of oils & butters in a basic lotion

Let’s take some time today to see how this all comes together in choosing butters and oils for our lotions! Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melt point…...

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