Emollients you will love: Tamanu oil

I’ve been playing with tamanu oil (INCI: Calophyllum Tacamahaca Seed Oil) for a while now, so let’s take a look at this interesting oil! Tamanu oil is a thick, rich oil with a distinctive smell and colour. It is reported to be an anti-microbial with anti-oxidant properties, and works well as a skin or hair conditioner…....

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Emollients you will love: Myristyl myristate, simple ester

In my newest formula for an emulsified sugar scrub, I used myristyl myristate to thicken it and offer a more glidy and less greasy skin feel. Let’s take a look at this ingredient! Myristyl myristate is a simple ester, a waxy one with a melting point of 38-40˚C. It’s slightly polar and non-ionic ester. It…...

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Experiments with rheology modifiers: Gelmaker CC aka Cosmedia Gel CC

Another beaker broken during the grand oil thickening experiments! I don’t know what it is about high shear + clay based thickeners, but if this keeps up, I’ll have to order the 100 and 150 ml by the caseload! Oh well, it’s all in the name of figuring out how we can use these ingredients…...

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Creating a decadent dry brushing oil with squalane, another hydrocarbon

Yesterday, we created decadent dry brushing oil with isododecane that had a light, non-greasy feeling with great slip, glide, and spreadability. Today, let’s take a look at making this with another hydrocarbon, squalane. A reader named Stephany asked me this question on Instagram, where you can find me as @swiftcraftymonkey: I was reading your posts on squalane,…...

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Creating a decadent dry brushing oil with isododecane with an aside about grape seed oil

I’ve been playing a lot with isododecane, that very light, non-greasy, non-polar hydrocarbon we met the other day, and wanted to share another formula we’re loving around the SwiftCraftyMonkey house during these drier winter months! I can’t believe how itchy I’ve been feeling since the humidity dropped back in December. Yeah, I know, it’s like…...

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#alltheingredients Isododecane

Isododecane is a hydrocarbon alkane with no double bonds. It’s a non-polar, oil soluble molecule that only contains carbon and hydrogen atoms. We can use it as an oily ingredient anywhere we might use natural oils or butters (vegetable, seed, and animal oils), as well as with esters and silicones. It’s considered an isoparaffin. More…...

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Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils? Part two, polar oils

We first met this idea when we encountered that interesting thickening clay on Sunday, February 24th, then we took a look at hydrocarbons on Monday, February 25th. Today, let’s take a look at polar oils! So what’s the deal with polar oils? “Polar oils contain heteroatoms that differ in electron­egativity. This results in a dipole moment…....

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Chemistry: What the heck are polar oils? Part one, hydrocarbons

This came up yesterday in our post about that interesting thickening clay, so let’s recap, then take a look at hydrocarbons and polar oils! You know how oil and water don’t mix? That’s because water is polar, meaning it has a negative charge at one end and a positive charge on the other, and oils…...

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#alltheingredients: Lanolin alcohol

I bought this ingredient last year from Making Cosmetics, so I thought we should take a look at it before formulating with it in this week’s Formulating Fundamentals Friday on fatty alcohols and acids. This is a fatty alcohol, like cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, derived from lanolin. It’s used in the same way, as…...

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Formulating with hydrogenated butters: Lime butter

As I mentioned back in September, I bought a lot of lime butter by accident, so I’ve been formulating with it quite a bit lately. Let’s take a look at this ingredient and other hydrogenated oils/butters before we formulate with it. Lime butter – INCI: Citrus Latifolia Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Tocopherol, according…...

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