#alltheingredients: Lanolin alcohol

I bought this ingredient last year from Making Cosmetics, so I thought we should take a look at it before formulating with it in this week’s Formulating Fundamentals Friday on fatty alcohols and acids. This is a fatty alcohol, like cetyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol, derived from lanolin. It’s used in the same way, as…...

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Formulating with hydrogenated butters: Lime butter

As I mentioned back in September, I bought a lot of lime butter by accident, so I’ve been formulating with it quite a bit lately. Let’s take a look at this ingredient and other hydrogenated oils/butters before we formulate with it. Lime butter – INCI: Citrus Latifolia Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Tocopherol, according…...

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Emollients you will love: Sacha Inchi (Plukentia Volubilis) Seed Oil 

In the September Q&A, Charlette asked: This formulating obsession makes me less sad to see the coming end of gardening (which brings me much happiness!). I used to dread the inevitable next few months–but now don’t mind so much! My question is about a new ingredient offered by Lotioncrafters which sounds intriguing. The oil is called…...

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What should I make with all this lime butter?

So, I’m a bit of an idiot. I was ordering a few things from New Directions Aromatics, and didn’t want to incur their “small order” fee ($100 is not small!) so I threw some lime butter into my basket. And when it came, it turns out I bought a kilogram of it! Thank goodness it…...

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Considering the effect of different combinations of oils & butters in a basic lotion

Let’s take some time today to see how this all comes together in choosing butters and oils for our lotions! Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melt point…...

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Why is the cosmetic formulator concerned with solubility, viscosity, surface tension, contact angles, wetting, refractive index, specific gravity, spreadability, play time, cushion, drag, and melting point?

I thought we’d take some time to process what we’ve learned over the last few days about these very interesting concepts by considering some emollient combinations. Defining some scientific terms: Solubility, viscosity, surface tension, and interfaces Defining some scientific terms: Contact angle, wetting, refractive index, and specific gravity Defining some cosmetic chemistry terms: Spreadability, play…...

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Formulating tips & techniques: Substituting oils, butters, and esters for other oils, butters, and esters

In this post, Let’s formulate: Chamomile & aloe botanical summer time body butter (formula), Andrea asked: Can I leave isopropyl myristate (IPM) out (don’t have any) and add a different oil? Or just leave it out? The short answer is yes, you can substitute it. The longer answer is that unless I indicate otherwise in…...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: I can’t believe it’s not butter! Hydrogenated, infused, and emulsified butters

As I mentioned in this post on murumuru oil, I’ve gone on a bit of a spending spree over the last 18 months for all kinds of ingredients, including some new and interesting butters. I’ve fallen in love with cupuacu butter, as well as murumuru butter and tucuma butter. I’ve also been having some fun…...

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Creating an awesome new emulsified scrub bar with my new butters!

Last week, I introduced you to one of my favourite new butters – tucuma butter – so I thought today  I’d share with you the awesome new emulsified scrub bar I created with it. When I make scrub bars, I tend to make the base, then add the scrubby stuff outside of the main formula…...

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Emollients you will love: Tucuma butter

Tucuma butter (INCI: Astrocaryum tucuma seed butter) is derived from the kernel of the fruit of the Amazon palm tree, astrocaryum tucuma. It’s a solid white to off-white butter at room temperature that melts with an average melting point of 28˚C to 38˚C or 83-97°F, which is lower than body temperature. It comes as a…...

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