Subscribers’ Q&A: Is there a benefit to mixing different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid?

In the June Q&A, Charlette asked: I am confused about using low and high molecular HA. I understand that the low weight doesn’t gel – but has better penetration. Is it possible to use both low AND high weights in a formula? I like the gelling of the high molecular (especially in toner–gives a bit of...

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Subscribers’ Q&A: What is the difference in function between Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Collageneer? Can I add Co Q10?

In the June Q&A, Jaime asked: What is the difference in function between Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate and Collageneer? Can they both work in one oil serum. Can I also add Co Q10? From this post: Collageneer (INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil and Lupinus Albus Seed Extract) can be used at up to 2% in the cool...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: Actives & cosmeceuticals: Coenzyme Q10

I know we touched on this interesting cosmeceutical in this post from 2011 – Some thoughts on cosmeceuticals – but I thought it was time to re-visit Coenzyme Q10! CO-ENZYME Q10 (INCI: Ubiquinone) Purpose: Anti-aging, photo-aging Suggested usage: 0.2% to 3% in the heated oil phase until dissolved. It can precipitate out of your product, so a...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: Improving radiance and brightening skin: Combinations to reduce hyperpigmentation

We’ve spent the last week looking at various ways we can “improve radiance” and “brighten skin”. Last Monday, we took a look at using hydrating and moisturizing ingredients to increase hydration and reduce dryness. Last Wednesday, we created a hand & body lotion for more humid climates. Last Thursday, we created one for more arid...

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Members’ exclusive: Working with liposomes – Vitamin C in a light moisturizer

Yesterday, we took a look at how to use MAP liposomes in a light, gelled facial serum. Today, let’s see how these might work in a lotion. Keep this in mind when we’re formulating with these liposomes: They should be used at 1% to 10% in the cool down phase (lower than 45˚C) in products...

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Members’ exclusive: Working with liposomes – Vitamin C in a gelled facial serum

Vitamin C is notoriously annoying to work with if you’re not using the right version. In general, you can’t just add l-ascorbic acid to a water based product and be done with it as it’ll oxidize and be awful. This is why we turn to Vitamin C liposomes! Please see part one of this series...

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Actives & cosmeceuticals: Vitamin C revisited

As a note, part of this post was originally shared on January 21, 2011, on the old blog. There are some great comments over there that I couldn’t bring over here, so I encourage you to check those out if you’re interested. Vitamin C is a water soluble anti-oxidant has been proven in studies to...

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Members’ exclusive: Liposomes – what are they and how to use them?

As we saw yesterday a liposome is “A spherical vesicle with at least one lipid bilayer” into which oil or water soluble ingredients can be placed so the cosmeceutical or vitamin reaches its destination without falling apart or reacting with things in the product. Using liposomes can improve stability and efficacy of active ingredients “Transepidermal penetration...

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Members exclusive: Formulas I would have offered at the US conference: Targeted treatment gel

I was scheduled to offer a seminar on facial products at the US conference in Atlanta today, Wednesday, May 2nd, but had to cancel due to my ongoing pain issues, so I present to you the formulas I would have shared at the sold out (30 participants) $89 per person seminar. I’ve been making a...

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Members’ Q&A: Using different weights of hyaluronic acid? How to use sodium carbomer powder?

In the April Q&A, Sarah asked: I bought some sodium carbomer (powder, from Lotioncrafter) because I don’t yet have a pH meter, and liked the idea of something I didn’t need to neutralize. I have found one instance of you using Sodium Carbormer, in your recipe for cream-gel in your Cosmeceuticals vol. 2 e-zine; you recommend...

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