Members’ exclusive: Working with liposomes – Vitamin C in a light moisturizer

Yesterday, we took a look at how to use MAP liposomes in a light, gelled facial serum. Today, let’s see how these might work in a lotion. Keep this in mind when we’re formulating with these liposomes: They should be used at 1% to 10% in the cool down phase (lower than 45˚C) in products...

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Members’ exclusive: Working with liposomes – Vitamin C in a gelled facial serum

Vitamin C is notoriously annoying to work with if you’re not using the right version. In general, you can’t just add l-ascorbic acid to a water based product and be done with it as it’ll oxidize and be awful. This is why we turn to Vitamin C liposomes! Please see part one of this series...

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Members’ exclusive: Liposomes – what are they and how to use them?

As we saw yesterday a liposome is “A spherical vesicle with at least one lipid bilayer” into which oil or water soluble ingredients can be placed so the cosmeceutical or vitamin reaches its destination without falling apart or reacting with things in the product. Using liposomes can improve stability and efficacy of active ingredients “Transepidermal penetration...

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Members exclusive: Formulas I would have offered at the US conference: Targeted treatment gel

I was scheduled to offer a seminar on facial products at the US conference in Atlanta today, Wednesday, May 2nd, but had to cancel due to my ongoing pain issues, so I present to you the formulas I would have shared at the sold out (30 participants) $89 per person seminar. I’ve been making a...

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Members’ Q&A: Using different weights of hyaluronic acid? How to use sodium carbomer powder?

In the April Q&A, Sarah asked: I bought some sodium carbomer (powder, from Lotioncrafter) because I don’t yet have a pH meter, and liked the idea of something I didn’t need to neutralize. I have found one instance of you using Sodium Carbormer, in your recipe for cream-gel in your Cosmeceuticals vol. 2 e-zine; you recommend...

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Member exclusive Q&A: What’s a cosmeceutical? What’s an active? Part two – categories

We spent a great deal of time trying to define the idea of “cosmeceutical” and “active” in this post, so let’s get to the next parts of the questions posed in my October Q&A on Patreon. Michelle asked: I am wondering what exactly is considered an ‘active’ ingredient, and if there is a maximum percentage recommended for...

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Member exclusive Q&A: What’s a cosmeceutical? What’s an active? Part one – definitions

As a note, I started this series on Patreon in late October, but really wanted to add to it over on the new blog, so I’ll be posting the nine parts here over the next week or so… In the October Q&A on Patreon, Michelle asked: I am loving the latest e-zines with all the lovely cosmeceuticals....

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Member exclusive Q&A: Where do you source retinol? Is it possible to create a water soluble formula with peptides?

In the December Q&A section, Sharon asked: Where do you source retinol from? In addition, is it possible to just create a water soluble formula with peptides (and humectants) without oil and the need to emulsify. I am not a big fan of gels as they seem to leave a residue under my eyes. I would...

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Member exclusive Q&A: Why are we using l-ascorbic acid in an oil based serum? Can it be used with niacinamide?

In the December Q&A, Carol asked: In regards to the Vitamin Packed Facial Serum found in your latest e-zine, if l-ascorbic acid is water soluble, how does it do in an oil serum?  The product I have is about the consistency of sand (not very soft) and I’m trying to find ways to use it up....

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