Q&A: Does isododecane or propanediol 1,3 go into the heated or cool down phase? What does lemon shine smell like? Questions about my epic rinse off conditioner formula!

In the monthly Q&A, Susan asked, I recently made your Epic Rinse Out Conditioner and am very happy with it but I have a couple of questions … If I’m correct, isododecane is a volatile ingredient so I’m wondering why it’s added to the warmed water phase rather than at cool down. Also, I’ve seen propanediol...

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#alltheingredients: Poly Suga Quat L-1010P (INCI: Polyquaternium 78) with formulas!

This conditioning ingredient profile appeared in its original form in the e-book, Shiny things, volume 3: Things that distracted me, issued in November 2019. This is is the kind of material I share in these e-books – ingredient profiles, emollient profiles, other profiles along with formulas to show you how to use them.  Many are exclusive...

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Q&A: Why do positively charged (cationic) conditioning agents smell fishy or earthy?

Have you ever caught a whiff of a positively charged conditioner like Incroquat BTMS-50 or Honeyquat and wondered why it smelled fishy? There’s nothing wrong with the product: You’re smelling the ammonium salt in the cationic quaternary compound! Some people can smell it, some can’t. It’s hard to know if you’ll be a smeller or...

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#alltheingredients: ClearHance™ C (INCI: Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) – naturally derived cationic conditioning ingredient

You know how much I love conditioning ingredients, so I was extremely excited to use this new one from Lotioncrafter, ClearHance™ C (INCI: Cassia Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) This is a cationic or positively charged polymer powdered conditioner derived from cassia seeds that works as a conditioner to increase both wet and dry combing, reduce the potential for...

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Creating rinse-off conditioners with silicone substitutes: Adding hair care actives to prevent colour fade or retain curls (part eight) – the formula! 

Welcome back to this multi-part series on creating rinse-off hair conditioners with silicone substitutes. In part one, we took a look at how we might create a basic formula, choosing ingredients and preservatives. In part two, we analyzed the formula to see what each ingredient brings to the conditioner party, then took a look at...

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