Pro tip: Allantoin goes into the heated water phase – not the cool down phase – of emulsions

On January 28 on this blog’s Facebook page, I shared the links to the post on allantoin from January 17th here on the blog, and an interesting discussion sprung up, which I thought I’d share here and add more of my thoughts and links because all of a sudden, people are using allantoin in the…...

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Preservatives and inactivation: Some references, articles, and studies that might interest you!

There was such interest in this post on inactivation of parabens by various ingredients, I wanted to share more with you about preservatives. One of the things on this blog that isn’t so obvious at times is that we need to evaluate each product to see which preservative works best with it, there’s not a…...

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Q&A: Is allantoin amphoteric? What’s an isoelectric point? Can we use it in anionic products?

Let’s continue with Mia Makes Things’ questions about using Germaben II in products and her third question about allantoin: The closest thing I’ve found is Sepimax ZEN, a gel former, which is anionic. And even then, as an anionic ingredient it prohibits the use of the cationic (at typical pH) allantoin. Which pretty much defeats my…...

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Further adventures in cosmetic chemistry: What’s up coming next! 

As I was writing up another variation of the Saje Psoria Ease Healing Treatment Lotion about incorporating rheology modifiers into our lotions – things like xanthan gum or gelling agents – I realized I needed to stop so I can finish the series I was sharing about some of the cosmetic chemistry terms I was…...

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Q&A: Are there oils we shouldn’t freeze? Oils and titer points, surfactants and cloud points

Quite a few times, Marta has asked this question, and I’ve been remiss in answering it. She posed it again in the Discussion: How do you decide what to make? What about mulitifunctional products? How do you store and inventory your stuff? and shared what she heard from Lotioncrafter. I emailed Lotioncrafter to ask why the…...

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Misconceptions about pH: It isn’t a series of steps

I shared this on my blog Facebook page, but didn’t share it here. Sorry about that. I encourage you to check out some of the comments as there are some interesting ones, and some from my bestest ever friend, Hamsa Ryuugan posing as Claudia Celeron. (He’s blocked me, which is just so sad and pathetic,…...

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Surfactants: Cleansing descriptions and increasing mildness – analyzing surfactants

Thanks for sticking around to the end of this series. I know for some this might seem like a very dry subject and some of you are yelling at the screen for me to shut up about chemistry stuff and get to the formulas, but if you have a curious mind and want to learn…...

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Surfactants: Cleansing descriptions and increasing mildness – concentration and altering the shape, size, and packing of micelles

In our post on Wednesday, we took a look at a few ways we might define what it means for a surfactant to be classified as gentle, mild, or harsh. Thursday, we took a look at how micelles, critical micelle concentration, and other ingredients have an impact on surfactant classification. And on Friday, we took a…...

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Q&A: Do oils have a pH? Can we test the pH of an anhydrous product? If so, what’s the procedure? And a little on pH meters… 

In the October Q&A, Michelle asked: I am wondering if one can test the pH of an anhydrous product? I am making a lovely anhydrous deodorant and would like to proceed with some testing/data gathering. Which meter would be most useful? I have the Jenco Vision Plus but products need to be diluted in water for…...

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Chemistry: Atoms, moles, and molecular weight

I realized there were a few more terms I had to share before we get into the natural gum thickeners. Plus, I needed to give you the date of the quiz. Nah, just kidding…or am I? 🙂 On September 7th, we started this series off by looking at why xanthan gum might pill or ball…...

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