Q&A: What’s zinc PCA and how do I formulate with it? (#alltheingredients)

In the July Q&A, Charlette asked, I’ve been looking into developing some skincare for acne/break out prone skin. I’ve been reading about Zinc PCA-but cannot find it ANYWHERE among our usual wonderful suppliers. I ended up requesting samples on Knowde. From what I read-it is not the same as Zinc Oxide? Do you have any suggestions…...

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Q&A: Does resveratrol need to be diluted before using?

In the July Q&A, Heather R asked, I need help in understanding “Resveratrol” – Does it need to be diluted first like Hyaluronic Acid does? I would like to use it in a spray on facial toner. I bought 5g of it from Lotioncrafter. I’ve written a short post on Resveratrol, which I’ve linked in the…...

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Creating an epic level rinse off conditioner: Reviewing the active ingredients

At the risk of sounding arrogant, I cannot stress enough how much I love this new conditioner and leave in conditioner (coming soon)! These are the very best conditioners I’ve made for my hair ever! I’ve taken maybe 20 selfies in my entire life, and 17 of them have been since I made these conditioners…...

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#alltheingredients: Quaternized lemon shine (Hydroxypropyltrimonium Lemon Protein)

I’ve shared this ingredient with you in a few posts –  creating shampoo bars from scratch, conditioners and cationic polymers, Q&A: Creating liquid volumizing shampoo? Part four – actives, and this one, Q&A: Creating conditioners that add volume and retain curls? Using conditioning agents that won’t weigh down hair – cationic polymers, and Q&A: What’s a…...

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Formulas I found online: Conditioners using keratin hydrolysate silox!

After introducing you to this awesome ingredient – keratin hydrolysate silox from Formulator Sample Shop (also found as Keravis from Croda)  – I thought I’d share a few formulas I found on my travels online. Anywhere you see “Keravis”, use the keratin hydrolysate silox. I’ve offered a few ideas for substitutions below each formula as there…...

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#alltheingredients: Keratin hydrolysate silox (hair care active)

On Saturday, I shared my new epic conditioner that uses ICE Conditioner or JEEQUAT® NDCS or Naturally Derived Conditioning System (INCI: Cetyl alcohol, behentrimonium chloride, cocamidopropyl betaine, sorbitan laurate.) On Sunday, we learned more about this ingredient, then on Monday, we made a cold process, light kukui nut oil conditioner or lotion with Jeequat® NDCS/ICE conditioner. Finally, in yesterday’s…...

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Q&A: Creating liquid volumizing shampoo? Part four – actives

I’m having great fun formulating all kinds of shampoos suitable for fine hair or other types that don’t want to be weighed down. We started last week by looking at different types of shampoos and coming up with base formulas for clarifying, conditioning, and hydrating shampoos. Then we took a look at using different surfactants…...

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Q&A: What can I do with sea kelp bioferment? Can I put it in a shampoo bar?

In the September Q&A, Andrea asked: I bought sea kelp bioferment…now what do i do with it? I mixed a bit into the Tracie Martyn dupe and it felt nice on my skin. Could it replace some of the water in that concoction? Could we add sea kelp to a shampoo bar? How would that work,…...

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Subscribers’ exclusive: Actives & cosmeceuticals: Coenzyme Q10

I know we touched on this interesting cosmeceutical in this post from 2011 – Some thoughts on cosmeceuticals – but I thought it was time to re-visit Coenzyme Q10! CO-ENZYME Q10 (INCI: Ubiquinone) Purpose: Anti-aging, photo-aging Suggested usage: 0.2% to 3% in the heated oil phase until dissolved. It can precipitate out of your product, so a…...

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Recipes from the 2017 HSCG conference: Gigawhite & Vitamin C moisturizer with Aristoflex AVC – the active ingredients and recipe (updated)

On Monday, we took a look at the oil phase and emulsifier for this recipe. Yesterday, we took a look at the water phase and preservative. Today, let’s take a look at the active ingredient and the final recipe. I’m adding Alpaflor® Gigawhite (INCI: Water, Glycerin, Alcohol, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow) Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf…...

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