Learning to formulate: Modifying your oil phase

While making our basic lotion the other day, we had a decision to make. Do we substitute 2% IPM for one of the oils or do we add it to the oil phase as an extra 2%? We addressed the substitution issue on Friday, so let’s take a look at increasing your oil phase today. …...

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Learning to formulate: Modifying a basic lotion

There are so many different ways to reach the goals I set out for yesterday’s recipe, and it all depends on your preferred and available ingredients and your preferred skin feel. Let’s consider our question about goals again, but tweak it a little for a different skin feel… What kind of product do I want…...

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Learning to formulate: Making a basic lotion

Okay, so you’ve learned about the different phases (heated water, heated oil, and cool down phases), let’s take a look at tweaking a basic formula for a lotion. Let’s consider our questions about the lotion…. What kind of product do I want to make? Is it a moisturizer, body milk, lotion, cream, or butter? For…...

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Learning to formulate: A note about percentages

To clarify, when you’re creating any product, think in percentages, not grams or volume. When making any product, you’ll want the total ingredient list to come to 100% (mine vary because I’m thinking about other preservatives you might want to use, but 100% is the ideal). If you look at the recipes on this blog…...

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Learning to formulate: The cool down phase (updated)

So we’ve taken a look at our heated water phase and the heated oil phase, so let’s turn our attention to the cool down phase. What do we put in the cool down phase? Pretty much anything that won’t tolerate the heated and held phases of our water or oil, meaning anything that should be…...

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“Hope in a Jar” by philosophy

Heidi suggested we take a look at the Hope in a Jar cream by philosophy in light of what we learned about the dollar store lotions the other day. This cream can cost between $38 and $105 for 8 ounces, so what makes it so expensive? Let’s take a look at what Sephora says about…...

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Learning to formulate: The oil phase

The second of our three phases is the oil phase, so let’s take a look at this phase and how to tweak it! The oil phase consists of oil soluble ingredients that can be safely heated and held at 70˚C for 20 minutes. This is where you’ll find our emollients, emulsifiers, thickeners, and anything that is…...

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The HLB system or creating your own emulsifier

I plan to go into this in more detail in the near future, but for those of you who are interested in learning more about the HLB system (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance system), here are a few links to posts I’ve written on this topic… What is the HLB system?A demonstration of the HLB system with a…...

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Learning to formulate: The water phase

As we know, there are generally three phases to our lotion – the heated water phase, the heated oil phase, and the cool down phase. Let’s take a closer look at the water phase. The heated water phase consists of water soluble ingredients that can safely be heated and held at 70˚C for 20 minutes…....

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Question: Cheaper lotions – comparing dollar store lotions.

Will and Patrick did the most important thing you can do in learning this thing we call cosmetic chemistry – they stayed curious – and both went out to the dollar store to buy lotions. Let’s take a look at what each of them found! (And be warned, this is a long post!) Will: I made…...

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