When lotions go wrong! (updated)

At one time or another, we’ve all experienced epic lotion failure and asked ourselves what we did wrong. We call it separation, but do you know why it happened? The main reason for separation is “the coalescence of dispersed droplets”, in other words, the oil clumps together. Because the oil has a lower specific gravity...

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HLB – a short summary and a few links

I figured now that you’ve seen the HLB system in action, it’s time for a summary. The HLB system is designed to make it easier to figure out what emulsifier goes with what lotion. Your oil phase will have a required HLB value, meaning this is the number you need to match with an emulsification...

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Silicones and the HLB system

Mich brings up a very good point that I think needs addressing! Here you have the HLB requirement for dimethicone as either 9 or 10, depending on c.s. It is listed as 5 on both LabRat’s PDF and the Herbarie’s list. (Neither of those specify the c.s.)In the texts I’ve been reading, I keep seeing...

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Things to think about when creating an emulsification system.

We can, in theory, combine any low HLB and high HLB emulsifiers to create an emulsification system. But there are reasons you might not want to use certain combinations. Perhaps you’re avoiding certain emulsifiers because they contain elements of something you don’t like. Or you can’t get your ingredients reliably or locally. Or you might...

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More fun with the HLB system – a body butter recipe.

All right, so we did a kinda basic recipe yesterday, let’s look at something more complicated…a body butter filled with various oils and esters and silicones.OUR MODIFIED BODY BUTTER RECIPEWATER PHASE42% water10% aloe vera liquid10% lavender or rose hydrosol2% sodium lactate OIL PHASE10% oils – 5% macadamia nut and 5% safflower oil15% butter of choice...

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A demonstration of HLB (updated)

I’m going to take a lotion recipe you’ve probably seen before (in this post) and use this as a demonstration of how to use the HLB system to create an emulsifying system. Please click on this PDF so you can have the chart handy for the HLB values for the oil phase and emulsifiers. As...

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HLB or the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance system

When we’re working with emulsification systems like e-wax or BTMS, we don’t think of how it’s going to emulsify our product. We just add the required amount and poof! – we have lotion. But if we want to create an emulsification system of our own, we need to turn to the HLB system for guidance!...

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A slightly more in depth look at emulsification (updated)

In anticipation of a series of posts on the HLB system and lotions, here’s a post on emulsification. I know I’ve covered emulsions in the past, but I wanted to expand it a little bit here. What exactly is an emulsion? For the purposes of this discussion, I’m going to work with the oil-in-water lotion,...

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A couple of notes about acne, break outs, and sensitive skin

A lot of us turn to making our own products because we suffer from acne or other skin problems or our skin is so sensitive, we can’t seem to use any commercial products without some degree of suffering. Let’s check out the definitions for various words we tend to use when we’re talking about skin...

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Weight vs. volume (updated)

For the most part, most of the recipes you’ll see for bath and body products are in weights because it’s the most accurate way to get the results you want. And most recipes you’ll see for mineral make-up tend to be in volume measurements – teaspoons, scoops, and so on – because we’re dealing with...

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