Oil free moisturizer

Leanne wrote to me asking for some tips on creating an oil free moisturizer. By definition a moisturizer contains oil, water, and emulsifier…so is it possible to make an oil free moisturizer? Yes! When you see lotions in the stores with “oil free” emblazoned on the container, they still contain an oil phase. Generally the...

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Better crafting through chemistry: Esters & water soluble oils – PEG-7 olivate

There are two ways to make water soluble oils – you can mix an oil with an emulsifier (usually polysorbate 80) to make an oil water soluble or you can esterify them (okay, you can’t personally esterify them as you probably don’t have the equipment at home, but oils can be esterified to make them...

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Emulsification – phase inversion (updated)

I just learned the most interesting thing from Liz at the Dish and I have to share it! Have you ever considered whether you should pour the water into the oil or the oil into the water when you’re making lotions? I usually add the water to the oil because the water phase is always...

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Better crafting through chemistry: Esters – thickeners (part 2, Crothix)

Yes, Crothix is an ester – in fact, it’s a complex ester! The INCI is PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (and) PEG-6 caprylic/capric trigylcerides (and) water. It’s derived from and composed mostly of stearic acid. It’s non-ionic and it will create clear thickened surfactant systems, as opposed to the pearlized systems created with the EZ Pearl (yesterday’s...

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Better crafting through chemistry: Esters – thickeners (part 1) (updated)

Esters are well known to be efficient thickeners. You’ll have encountered a few on your bath and body adventures – glycol stearate, glycol distearate (or EZ Pearl), Crothix – when making surfactant systems or looking for options for emulsifiers. (Crothix isn’t an emulsifier, the others are!) These are all PEG esters or polyethylene glycol based...

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Better crafting through chemistry: Esters – IPM (updated)

If you’ve been following this blog for any length of time, you’ll know I’m a fan of isopropyl myristate or IPM. I use it primarily as a dry or astringent emollient to reduce the greasy feeling of other oils in a lotion or lotion bar. You can use it in large quantities as the primary...

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Gels: Hair styling products

In my excitement about esters, I totally forgot about hair styling gels! I don’t use them much myself – my hair doesn’t really do “style” that well – but I do like to make them for my mom, who has really spiky hair. Gels are a perfect vehicle for conditioning agents. Sure, you can make...

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Sushi soap!

The Soap Queen has done it again – SUSHI SOAP! (Yes, I am obsessed with sushi. I like to eat it and craft various things either looking like it or using sushi fabric! This is a picture from my new sunglasses case. The tutorial will be posted in a couple of weeks…) Click on the...

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Better crafting through chemistry: Esters

So what the heck is an ester and how or why would I want to use them in our bath and body creations? An ester is a molecule that has undergone esterification. (Wow, that was clear, eh?) Esterification is a chemical reaction – for our purposes between a carboxylic acid (like a fatty acid from...

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Lovely scientist loves science – web link

Take a few moments today to check out Joanne’s science site – Lovely Scientist Loves Science – for the science of beauty section. Learn about the science of mascara and why hair turns grey. She appears to have a thing for Ben Goldacre…and who wouldn’t? He’s my future nominee for Geek Man of the Month....

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