The other day, we spent some time getting to know each of the ingredients I like for this lotion, so let’s make the darned thing already!
As an aside, thanks for commenting on the previous post!
BAOBAB & BABASSU BODY BUTTER WITH SIMULGREEN 18-2
HEATED WATER PHASE
36% distilled water
10% aloe vera extract or liquid
10% chamomile hydrosol
3% propylene glycol
2% hydrolyzed baobab protein
2% sodium lactate (liquid) or 1.2% sodium lactate (powder)
HEATED OIL PHASE
12% baobab oil
10% babassu oil
4% Simulgreen 18-2
3% cetyl alcohol
0.5% xanthan gum
COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol (liquid)
2% dimethicone (6 cs, which is very watery)
0.5% fragrance oil – vanilla bourbon FO from Voyageur Soap & Candle – or essential oil
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1. Weigh the heated water phase into a heatproof container. Measure the weight of the water phase and the container before putting it into your double boiler. (This is so we can compensate for evaporation after the heating and holding phase.) Place the container into a double boiler.
2. Weigh the heated oil phase into a heatproof container, then place into the double boiler.
3. When both phases have reached 70˚C, hold for 20 minutes, then remove from the heat. Measure the water phase and top it up with enough recently boiled distilled water to make up the weight of hte water phase before heating to compensate for lost water.
4. Pour the water into the oil phase, then mix with a stick blender for about 3 minutes. Then switch to a hand mixer with beaters.
5. When the lotion reaches 45˚C, add the cool down phase and mix well with the beaters again.
6. When it comes to room temperature, package in a tottle (Malibu) bottle or jar.
If you want to try this with Polawax, check out this post in the frequently asked question section of the blog about the 25% rule and this emulsifier. In short, total up all the things that need to be emulsified – oils, butters, silicones, fragrance oils, essential oils, fatty alcohols or acids, and so on – which would be 27.5% for this lotion. You’d then figure out what 25% of 27.5% might be (divide by 4), so you’d get 6.75%. I’d round that up to 7% to ensure I compensate for potential hand slips.
Modify the distilled water amount by removing 3% to compensate for the extra emulsifier, so you’d have 33% distilled water.
If you want to try this with emulsifying wax, you’d do the same thing as you’d do with Polawax, but add an extra percent at the end. So instead of 7%, you’d have 8%. Modify the distilled water amount by 4% to compensate, so you’d have 32% distilled water.
If you use these emulsifiers, you will have a far thicker product than what I’ve made here. You can see a version I made with shea butter and baobab oil in this post.
Or join me in a few days to make lighter, fluffier version of this with Simulsol 165 (aka Lotionpro™ 165).